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CULINARY HERBS 



Ah, Zephyrus ! art here, and Flora too ! 
Ye tender bibbers of the rain and dew, 
Young playmates of the rose and daffodil, 
Be careful, ere ye enter in, to fill 
Your baskets high 

With fennel green, and balm, and golden pines. 
Savory, latter-mint, and columbines, 
Cool parsley, basil sweet, and sunny thyme ; 
Yea, every flower and leaf of every clime. 
All gather'd in the dewy mom : hie 
Away ! fly, fly ! 

— Keats, " Endymion " 




Herbs and Children, a Happy Harmony 



CULINARY 
HERBS 

Their Cultivation, Harvesting, Curing and Uses 



Mo>^^Gii^ KAINS 

Associate Editor American Agriculturist 



NEW YORK 
ORANGE JUDD COMPANY 

LONDON 

KEGAN PAUL, TRENCH. TRUBNER & CO.. Limited 

1912 






c^^^ 



Copyright, 1912 

ORANGE JUDD COMPANY 

All Risr^its Resen'ed 



Entered at Stationers' Hall, London. England 



Printed in U. S. A. 






PREFACE 

A small boy who wanted to make a good impres- 
sion once took his little sweetheart to an ice cream 
parlor. After he had vainly searched the list of 
edibles for something within his means, he whis- 
pered to the waiter, ''Say, Mister, what you got that 
looks tony an' tastes nice for nineteen cents?" 

This is precisely the predicament in which many 
thousand people are today. Like the boy, they have 
skinny purses, voracious appetites and mighty 
yearnings to make the best possible impression 
within their means. Perhaps having been "invited 
out," they learn by actual demonstration that the 
herbs are culinary magicians which convert cheap 
cuts and "scraps" into toothsome dainties. They 
are thus aroused to the fact that by using herbs 
they can afford to play host and hostess to a larger 
number of hungry and envious friends than ever 
before. 

Maybe it is mainly due to these yearnings and to 
the memories of mother's and grandmother's famous 
dishes that so many inquiries concerning the propa- 
gation, cultivation, curing and uses of culinary herbs 
are asked of authorities on gardening and cookery; 
and maybe it is because no one has really loved the 
herbs enough to publish a book on the subject. That 
herbs are easy to grow I can abundantly attest, for 
I have grown them all. I can also bear ample wit- 
ness to the fact that they reduce the cost of high 



PREFACE 

living, if by that phrase is meant pleasing the palate 
without offending the purse. 

For instance, a few days ago a friend paid twenty 
cents for soup beef, and five cents for *'soup greens." 
The addition of salt, pepper and other ingredients 
brought the initial cost up to twenty-nine cents. 
This made enough soup for ten or twelve liberal 
servings. The lean meat removed from the soup 
was minced and mixed with not more than ten cents' 
worth of diced potatoes, stale bread crumbs, milk, 
seasoning and herbs before being baked as a supper 
dish for five people, who by their bland smiles and 
"scotch plates" attested that the viands both looked 
"tony" and tasted nice. 

I am glad to acknowledge my thanks to Mr. N .R, 
Graves of Rochester, N. Y., and Prof. R. L. Watts 
of the Pennsylvania State Agricultural College, for 
the photographic illustrations, and to Mr. B. F. 
Williamson, the Orange Judd Co.'s artist, for the 
pen and ink drawings which add so much to the 
value, attractiveness and interest of these pages. 

If this book shall instill or awaken in its readers 
the wholesome though "cupboard" love that the culi- 
nary herbs deserve both as permanent residents of 
the garden and as masters of the kitchen, it will have 
accomplished the object for wh^ch it was written. 

M. G. Kains. 

New York, 1912. 



CONTENTS 



Page 

Preface v 

A Dinner of Herbs 7 

Culinary Herbs Defined 11 

History 12 

Production of New Varieties 15 

Status and Uses 19 

Notable Instance of Uses 21 

Methods of Curing 22 

Drying and Storing 25 

Herbs as Garnishes 30 

Propagation, Seeds 32 

Cuttings 34 

Layers 36 

Division 37 

Transplanting 39 

Implements 41 

Location of Herb Garden 44 

The Soil and Its Preparation 45 

Cultivation 47 

Double Cropping 48 

Herb Relationships 49 

The Herb List : 

Angelica 55 

Anise 59 

Balm 63 

Basil 65 

Borage 71 

Caraway 73 

Catnip 77 

Chervil 79 

Chives SO 

Clary 81 



Vlll CONTENTS 

Page 

Coriander 82 

Cumin 84 

Dill 87 

Fennel 89 

Finocchio 93 

Fennel Flower 94 

Hoarhound 95 

Hyssop 96 

Lavender 97 

Lovage 99 

Marigold 100 

Marjoram 101 

Mint 105 

Parsley 109 

Pennyroyal 119 

Peppermint 119 

Rosemary ^ 120 

Rue 122 

Sage 125 

Samphire 129 

Gavory, Summer 131 

Savory, Winter 132 

Southernwood 133 

Tansy 134 

Tarragon 134 

Thyme 137 



ILLUSTRATIONS 



Page 

Herbs and Children, a Happy Harmony Frontispiece 

Spading Fork 1 

Barrel Culture of Herbs 2 

Transplanting Board and Dibble 5 

Assortment of Favorite Weeders 8 

Popular Adjustable Row Marker 10 

Popular Spades 13 

Lath Screen for Shading Beds 16 

Harvesting Thyme Grown on a Commercial Scale 18 

Garden Hoes of Various Styles 20 

Dried Herbs in Paper and Tin 22 

Herb Solution Bottle 24 

Paper Sacks of Dried Herbs for Home Use 26 

Hand Cultivator and Scarifier 27 

Flat of Seedlings Ready to Be Transplanted 32 

Glass Covered Propagating Box 34 

Flower Pot Propagating Bed 35 

Holt's Mammoth and Common Sage 38 

Marker for Hotbeds and Cold Frames 39 

Leadinff Forms of Trowels 40 

Wooden Dibbles 43 

Combination Hand Plow 45 

Surface Paring Cultivator 47 

Thinning Scheme for Harvesting 48 

Center Row Hand Cultivator 50 

Hand Plow 52 

Prophecy of Many Toothsome Dishes 56 

Anise in Flower and in Fruit ^ 60 

Sweet Basil 66 

Borage, Famous for "Cool Tankard" 70 

Caraway for Comfits and Birthday Cakes 74 

Catnip, Pussy's Delight 78 

ix 



ILLUSTKATIONS 

Page 

Coriander, for Okl-Fashioned Candies 82 

Dill, of Pickle Fame 86 

Sweet Fennel 90 

Sweet Marjoram 102 

Mint. Best Friend of Roast Lamb 106 

Curled Parsley 110 

Rue. Sour Herb of Grace 124 

Sage. The Leading Herb for Duck and Goose Dressing— 126 

Holt's Mammoth and Common Sage Leaves 129 

Dainty Summer Savory 130 

Tarragon, French Chef's Delight 135 

rhyme for Sausage 137 



CULINARY HERBS 

In these days of jaded appetites, condiments and 
canned goods, how fondly we turn from the dreary 
monotony of the ^'dainty" menu to the memory of 
the satisfying dishes of our mothers ! What made 
us, like Oliver Twist, ask for more? Were those 
flavors real, or was it association and natural, youth- 
ful hunger that enticed us ? Can we ever 
forget them ; or, what is more practical, 
can we again realize them? We may 
find the secret and the answer in moth- 
er's garden. Let's peep in. 

The garden, as in memory we view 
it, is not remarkable except for its neat- 
ness and perhaps the mixing of flowers, 
fruits and vegetables as we never see 
them jumbled on the table. Strawber- 
ries and onions, carrots and currants, 
potatoes and poppies, apples and sweet 
corn and many other as strange com- 
rades, all grow together in mother's 

, . , , Spading Fork 

garden m the utmost harmony. 

All these are familiar friends ; but what are those 
plants near the kitchen? They are "mother's sweet 
herbs." We have never seen them on the table. 
They never played leading roles such as those of the 
cabbage and the potato. They are merely members 
of ''the cast" which performed the small but important 
])arts in the production of the pleasing tout ensemble 



CULINARY HERBS 



— soup, Stew, sauce, or salad — the remembrance of 
which, like that of a well-staged and well-acted 
drama, lingers in the memory long after the actors 
are forgotten. 

Probably no culinary plants have during the last 
50 years been so neglected. Especially during the 
4r i. ''ready-to-serve" food 

l l^ S^fi^ ^l-fa xtev ^^i"Paigi^ of the closed 

quarter century did 
they suffer most. 
But they are again 
coming into their 
own. Few plants are 
so easily cultivated 
and prepared for ase. 
A\'ith the exception of 
the onion, none may 
be so effectively em- 
ployed and none may 
so completely trans- 
form the "left-over" 
as to tempt an other- 
wise balky appetite to 
indulge in a second 
serving without being urged to perform the homely 
duty of "eating it to save it." Indeed, sweet herbs 
are, or should be, the boon of the housewife, since 
they make for both pleasure and economy. The 
soup may be made of the most wholesome, nutri- 
tious and even costly materials ; the fish may be 
boiled or baked to perfection ; the joint or the roast 
and the salad may be otherwise faultless, but if they 




Barrel Culture of Herbs 



CULINARY HERBS 3 

lack flavor they will surely fail in their mission, and 
none of the neighljors will plot to steal the cook, 
as they otherwise might did she merit the reputation 
that she otherwise might, by using culinary herbs. 

This doleful condition may be prevented and the 
cook enjoy an enviable esteem by the judicious use 
of herbs, singly or in combination. It is greatly 
to be regretted that the uses of these humble plants, 
which seem to fall lower than the dignity of the title 
"vegetable," should be so little understood bv intelli- 
gent American housewives. 

In the flavoring of prepared dishes we Americans — 
people, as the French say, "of one sauce'' — mighf 
well learn a lesson from the example of the English 
matron who usually considers her kitchen incom- 
plete without a dozen or more sweet herbs, either pow- 
dered, or in decoction, or preserved in both ways. 
A glance into a French or a German culinary depart- 
ment would probably show more than a score ; but a 
careful search in an American kitchen would rarely 
reveal as many as half a dozen, and in the great 
majority probably only parsley and sage would be 
brought to light. Yet these humble plants possess 
the power of rendering even unpalatable and insipid 
dishes piquant and appetizing, and this, too, at a 
surprisingly low cost. Indeed, most of them may be 
grown in an out-of-the-way corner of the garden, or 
if no garden be availal^le, in a box of soil upon a 
sunny windowsill — a method adopted by many for- 
eigners living in tenement houses in New York and 
Jersey City. Certainly they may be made to add 
to the pleasure of living and, as Solomon declares. 



4 CULINARY HERBS 

"'better is a dinner of herbs where love is, than a 
stalled ox with contention." 

It is to be regretted that the moving picture show 
and the soda water fountain have such an influence 
in breaking up old-fashioned family evenings at 
home when everyone gathered around the evening 
lamp to enjoy homemade dainties. In those good 
old days the young man was expected to become 
acquainted with the young woman in the home. 
The girl took pride in serving solid and liquid culi- 
nary goodies of her own construction. Her mother, 
her all-sufficient guide, mapped out the sure, safe, 
and orthodox highway to a man's heart and saw to 
it that she learned how to play her cards with skill 
and precision. Those were the days when a larger 
proportion "lived happy ever after" than in modem 
times, when recreation and refreshment are sought 
more frequently outside than inside the walls of 
home. 

But it is not too late to learn the good old ways 
over again and enjoy the good old culinary dainties. 
Whoever relishes the summer cups that cheer but 
do not inebriate may add considerably to his enjoy- 
ment by using some of the sweet herbs. Spearmint 
adds to lemonade the pleasing pungency it as readily 
imparts to a less harmful but more notorious bever- 
age. The blue or pink flowers of borage have long 
been famous for the same purpose, though they are 
perhaps oftener added to a mixture of honey and 
water, to grape juice, raspberry vinegar or straw- 
berry acid. All that is needed is an awakened desire 
to re-establish home comforts and customs, then a 



CULINARY HERBS 5 

little later experimentation will soon fix the herb 
habit. 

The list of home confections may be very pleas- 
ingly extended by candying the aromatic roots of 
lovage, and thus raising up a rival to the candied 
ginger said to be imported from the Orient. If any- 
one likes coriander and caraway — I confess that I 
don't — he can sugar the seeds to make those little 
"comfits," the candies of our childhood which our 
mothers tried to make us think we liked to crunch 




Transplanting Board and Dibble 

either separately or sprinkled on our birthday cakes. 
Those were before the days when somebody's name 
was "stamped on every piece" to aid digestion. Can 
we ever forget the picnic when we had certain kinds 
of sandwiches? Our mothers minced sweet fennel, 
the tender leaves of sage, marjoram or several other 
herbs, mixed them with cream- cheese, and spread a 
layer between two thin slices of bread. Perhaps it 



O CULINARY HERBS 

was the swimming, or the three-legged racing, or tht 
swinging, or all put together, that put a razor edge 
on our appetites and made us relish those sand- 
wiches more than was perhaps polite: but will we 
not, all of us who ate them, stand ready to dispute 
with all comers that it was the flavors that made 
us forget "our manners" ? 

But sweet herbs may be made to serve another 
pleasing, an aesthetic purpose. Many of them may 
be used for ornament. A bouquet of the pale pink 
blossoms of thyme and the delicate flowers of mar- 
joram, the fragrant sprigs of lemon balm mixed with 
the bright yellow umbels of sweet fennel, the tinely 
divided leaves of rue and the long glassy ones of 
bergamot, is not only novel in appearance but la 
odor. In sweetness it excels even sweet peas ar.i 
roses. Mixed with the brilliant red berries of bar- 
berry- and multiflora rose, and the dark-green 
branches of the hardy th}-me. which continues fresh 
and sweet through the year, a handsome and lasting 
bouquet may be made for a midwinter table decora- 
tion, a fragrant reminder of Shakespeare's lines in 
"x\ Winter's Tale ' : 

*' Here's flv>wers for \-oa : 
Hv^^ laveader, mints, savory, manoram; 
The marigold, that gi>es to bed wi* the san 
And with him rises weeping." 

The rare aroma of sweet marjoram reminds so 
many city pev>ple of their mother's and their grand- 
mother's country- gardens, that countless muslin 
bags of the dried leaves sent to town ostensibly for 
stutfing poultrv' never reach the kitchen at all. but 



CULINAKV lIliRiJS 7 

are accorded more honored places in the living room. 
They are placed in the sunlight of a bay window 
where Old Sol may coax forth their prisoned odors 
and perfume the air with memories of childhood 
summers on the farm. 

Other memories cling to the delicate little lav- 
ender, not so much because the owner of a well- 
filled linen closet perfumed her spotless hoard with 
its fragrant flowers, but because of more tender 
remembrances. Would any country wedding chest 
be complete without its little silk bags filled with 
dried lavender buds and blooms to add the finish- 
ing touch of romance to the dainty trousseau of 
linen and lace? What can recall the bridal year 
so surely as this same kindly lavender? 

A DINNER OF HERBS 

In an article published in American Agriculturist, 
Dora M. Morrell says: "There is an inference that a 
dinner of herbs is rather a poor thing, one not to 
be chosen as a pleasure. Perhai)s it might be if it 
came daily, but, for once in a while, try this which 
I am going to tell you. 

"To ])rcpare a dinner of herbs in its best estate you 
should have a bed of seasonings such as our grand- 
mr)thers had in their gardens, rows of sage, of spicy 
mint, sweet marjoram, summer savory, fragrant 
thyme, tarragon, chives and parsley. To these we 
may add, if we take herbs in the Scriptural sense, 
nasturtium, and that toothsome esculent; the onion, 
as well as lettuce. If you wish a dinner of herbs 



S CULINARY HERBS 

and have not the fresh, the dried will ser^'e, but parsley 
and mint you can get at most times in the markets, or in 
countrv gardens, where they often grow wild. 

"Do vou know, my sister housewife, that if you 
were to have a barrel sawed in half, filled with good 
soil, some holes made in the side and then placed 
the prepared half barrel in the sun, you could have 
an herb garden of your own the year through, even 
if you live in a city flat? In the holes at the sides 
vou can plant parsley, and it will grow to cover the 




Assortment of Favorite Weeders 



barrel, so that you have a bank of green to look 
upon. On the top of the half barrel plant your mint, 
sage, thyme and tarragon. Thyme is so pleasing a 
plant in appearance and fragrance that you may 
acceptably give it a place among those you have in 
your window for ornament. 

"The Belgians make a parsley soup that might 
begin your dinner, or rather your luncheon. For the 
soup, thicken flour and butter together as for drawn 
butter sauce, and when properly cooked thin to soup 
consistency with milk. Flavor with onion juice, salt 



CULINARY HERBS 9 

and pepper. Just before serving add enough pars- 
ley cut in tiny bits to color the soup green. Serve 
croutons with this. 

"For the next course choose an omelette with fine 
herbs. Any cookbook will give the directions for 
making the omelette, and all that will be necessary 
more than the book directs is to have added to it 
minced thyme, tarragon and chives before folding, 
or they may be stirred into the omelette before 
cooking. 

"Instead of an omelette you may have eggs stuffed 
with fine herbs and served in cream sauce. Cut 
hard-boiled eggs in half the long way and remove 
the yolks. Mash and season these, adding the 
herbs, as finely minced as possible. Shape again like 
yolks and return to the whites. Cover with a hot 
cream sauce and serve before it cools. Both of these 
dishes may be garnished with shredded parsley over 
the top. 

"With this serve a dish of potatoes scalloped with 
onion. Prepare by placing in alternate layers the 
two vegetables; season well with salt, pepper and 
butter, and then add milk even with the top layer. 
This dish is quite hearty and makes a good supper 
dish of itself. 

"Of course you will not have a meal of this kind 
without salad. For this try a mixture of nasturtium 
leaves and blossoms, tarragon, chives, mint, thyme 
and the small leaves of the lettuce, adding any other 
green leaves of the spicy kind which you find to 
taste good. Then dress these with a simple oil and 
vinegar dressing, omitting sugar, mustard or any 



lO 



CULINARY HERBS 



such flavoring, for there is spice enough in the 
leaves themselves. 

*'Pass with these, if you will, sandwiches made 
with lettuce or nasturtium dressed with mayonnaise. 
You may make quite a ditlerent thing of them by 
adding mniced chives or tarragon, or thyme, to the 
mayonnaise. The French are very partial to this 
manner of compounding new sauces from the base 
of the old one. After voti do it a few times vou also 




Popular Adjustable Ro^- Marker 



"When it comes to a dessert I am afraid you will 
have to go outside of herbs. You can take a cream 
cheese and work into it with a silver knife any of 
these herbs, or any two of them that agree with it 
well, and serve it with toasted crackers, or you can 
toast your crackers with common cheese, grating 
above it sage and thyme." 

Whether this "dinner of herbs" appeals to the 
reader or not. I venture to sav that no housewife 



CULINARY HERBS II 

who has ever stuffed a Thanksgiving turkey, a 
Christmas goose or ducks or chickens with home- 
grown, home-prepared herbs, either fresh or dried, 
will ever after be willing to buy the paper packages 
or tin cans of semi-inodorous, prehistoric dust which 
masquerades equally well as "fresh" sage, summer 
savory, thyme or something else, the only apparent 
difference being the label. 

To learn to value herbs at their true worth one 
should grow them. Then every visitor to the garden 
will be reminded of some quotation from the Bible, 
or Shakespeare or some other repository of interest- 
ing thoughts ; for since herbs have been loved as 
long as the race has lived on the earth, literature is 
full of references to facts and fancies concerning 
them. Thus the herb garden will become the nu- 
cleus around which cluster hoary legends, gems of 
verse and lilts of song, and where one almost stoops 
to remove his shoes, for 

"The wisdom of the ages 
Blooms anew among the sages." 

CULINARY HERBS DEFINED 

It may be said that sweet or culinary herbs are 
those annual, biennial or perennial plants whose 
green parts, tender roots or ripe seeds have an 
aromatic flavor and fragrance, due either to a vola- 
tile oil or to other chemicall}^ named substances 
peculiar to the individual species. Since many of them 
have pleasing odors they have been called sweet, and 
since they have been long used in cookery to add their 



12 CULINARY HERBS 

characteristic flavors to soups, stews, dressings, sauces 
and salads, they are popularly called culinary. This last 
designation is less happy than the former, since many 
other herbs, such as cabbage, spinach, kale, dande- 
lion and collards, are also culinary herbs. These 
vegetables are, however, probably more widely 
known as potherbs or greens. 

HISTORY 

It seems probable that many of the flavoring 
herbs now in use were similarly employed before the 
erection of the pyramids and also that many then 
popular no longer appear in modern lists of escu- 
lents. Of course, this statement is based largely 
upon imperfect records, perhaps, in many cases only 
hints more or less doubtful as to the various species. 
But it seems safe to conclude that a goodly number 
of the herbs discussed in this volume, especially 
those said to be natives of the Mediterranean region, 
overhung and perfumed the cradle of the human 
race in the Orient and marked the footsteps of our 
rude progenitors as they strode more and more 
sturdily toward the horizon of promise. This idea 
seems to gain support also from the fact that certain 
Eastern peoples, whom modern civilization declares 
to have uneducated tastes, still employ many herbs 
which have dropped by the wayside of progress, or 
like the caraway and the redoubtable *'pusley," an 
anciently popular potherb, are but known in western 
lands as troublesome weeds. 

Relying upon Biblical records alone, several herbs 



CULINARY HERBS 



13 



were highly esteemed prior to our era; in the gos- 
pels of Matthew and Luke reference is made to 
tithes of mint, anise, rue, cummin and other "herbs" ; 
and, more than 700 years previously, Isaiah speaks 
of the sowing and threshing of cummin which, since 
the same passage (Isaiah xxviii, 25) also speaks of 
'^fitches" (vetches), wheat, barley 
and *'ne" (rye), seems then to 
have been a valued crop. 

The development of the herb 
crops contrasts strongly with that 
of the other crops to which refer- 
ence has just been made. Where- 
as these latter have continued to 
be staples, and to judge by their 
behavior during the last century 
may be considered to have im- 
proved in quality and yield since 
that ancient time, the former have 
dropped to the most subordinate 
position of all food plants. They 
have lost in number of species, 
and have shown less improvement than perhaps any 
other groups of plants cultivated for economic pur- 
poses. During the century just closed only one 
species, parsley, may be said to have developed 
more than an occasional improved variety. And 
even during this period the list of species seems 
to have been somewhat curtailed — tansy, hyssop, hore- 
hound, rue and several others being considered of 
too pronounced and even unpleasant flavor to suit 
cultivated palates. 




Popular Spades 



14 CULINARY HERBS 

With the .exception of these few species, the loss of 
which seems not to be serious, this absence of improve- 
ment is to be regretted, because with improved, 
quality would come increased consumption and 
consequent beneficial results in the appetizing flavor 
of the foods to which herbs are added. But greatly 
improved varieties of most species can hardly be 
expected until a just appreciation has been awak- 
ened in individual cultivators, who, probably in a 
majority of cases, will be lovers of plants rather than 
men who earn their living by market gardening. 

Until the public better appreciates the culinary 
herbs there will be a comparatively small commer- 
cial demand; until the demand is sufficient to make 
growing herbs profitable upon an extensive scale, 
market gardeners will devote their land to crops which 
are sure to pay w^ell ; hence the opportunity to grow 
herbs as an adjunct to gardening is the most likely 
way that they can be made profitable. And yet 
there is still another; namely, growing them for 
sale in the various prepared forms and selling them 
in glass or tin receptacles in the neighborhood or 
by advertising in the household magazines. There 
surely is a market, and a profitable one if rightly 
managed. And with right management and profit 
is to come desire to have improved varieties. Such 
varieties can be developed at least as readily as the 
wonderful modern chrysanthemum has 1:)een devel- 
oped from an insignificant little Avild flower not half 
as interesting or promising originally as our com- 
mon oxeye daisy, a well-known field weed. 

Not the least object of this volume is, therefore, 



CULINARY HERBS 1 5 

to arouse just appreciation of the opportunities 
awaiting the herb grower. Besides the very large 
and increasing number of people who take pleasure 
in the growing of attractive flowering and foliage 
plants, fine vegetables and choice fruits, there are 
many who would find positive delight in the breed- 
ing of plants for improvement — the origination of 
new varieties — and who would devote much of their 
leisure time to this work — make it a hobby — did 
they know the simple underlying principles. For their 
benefit, therefore, the following paragraphs are given. 

PRODUCTION OF NEW VARIETIES 

Besides the gratification that always accompanies 
the growing of plants, there is in plant breeding the 
promise that the progeny will in some way be better 
than the parent, and there is the certainty that when 
a stal)le variety of undoubted merit has been pro- 
duced it can be sold to an enterprising seedsman for 
general distribution. In this way the amateur may 
become a public benefactor, reap the just reward of 
his labors and keep his memory green! 

The production of new varieties of plants is a 
much simpler process than is commonly supposed. 
It consists far more in selecting and propagating the 
best specimens than in any so-called ''breeding." 
With the majority of the herbs this is the most likely 
direction in which to seek success. 

Suppose we have sown a packet of parsley 
seed and we have five thousand seedlings. Among 
these a lot will be so weak that we will naturally 



i6 



CULINARY HERB; 



pass them by when we are choosing plantlets to put 
in our garden beds. Here is the first and simplest 
kind of selection. By this means, and by not having 
space for a great number of plants in the garden, we 
probably get rid of 80 per cent of the seedlings — 
almost surely the least desirable ones. 

Suppose we have transplanted 1,000 seedlings 
where they are to grow and produce leaves for sale 
or home use. Among these, provided the seed has 

been good and true, 
at least 90 per cent 
will be about alike in 
appearance, produc- 
tivity and otherwise. 
The remaining plants 
may show variations 
so strikingf as to at- 

l.ath Screen for Shadins: Beds . 

tract attention. Some 
may be tall and scraggly. some may be small and 
puny; others may be light green, still others dark 
green ; and so on. But there may be one or two 
plants that stand out conspicuously as the best of 
the whole lot. These are the ones to mark with a 
stake so they will not be molested when the crop is 
being gathered and so they will attain their fullest 
development. 

These best plants, and only these, should then be 
chosen as the seed bearers. No others should be 
allowed even to produce flowers. When the seed 
has ripened, that from each plant should be kept 
separate during the curing process described else- 
where. And when spring comes again, each lot of 




CULINARY HERBS \J 

seed should be sown by itself. When the seedlings 
are transplanted, they should be kept apart and 
labeled No. i, No. 2, No. 3, etc., so the progeny of 
each parent plant can be known and its history kept. 

The process of selecting the seedlings the sec- 
ond year is the same as in the first; the best are 
given preference, when being transplanted. In the 
beds all sorts of variations even more pronounced 
than the first year may be expected. The effort with 
the seedlings derived from each parent plant should 
be to find the plants that most closely resemble 
their own parents, and to manage these just as the 
parents were managed. No other should be allowed 
to flower. 

This process is to be continued from year to year. 
If the selection is carefully made, the grower will 
soon rejoice, because he will observe a larger and 
a larger number of plants approaching the type of 
plant he has been selecting for. In time practically 
the whole plantation will be coming "true to type," 
and he will have developed a new variety. If his 
ideal is such as to appeal to the practical man — the 
man who grows parsley for money — and if the 
variety is superior to varieties already grown, the 
originator will have no difficulty in disposing of his 
stock of seed and plants, if he so desires, to a seeds- 
man, who will gladly pay a round price in order to 
have exclusive control of the "new creation." Or he 
may contract with a seedsman to grow seed of the 
new variety for sale to the trade. 

It may be said, further, that new varieties may be 
produced by placing the pollen from the flowers of 




18 



CULINARY HERBS IQ 

one plant upon the pistils in the flowers of another 
and then covering the plant with fine gauze to keep 
insects out. With the herbs, however, this method 
seems hardly worth while, because the flowers are 
as a rule very small and the work necessarily finicky, 
and because there are already so few varieties of 
most species that the operation may be left to the 
activities of insects. It is for this reason, however, 
that none but the choicest plants should be allowed 
to bloom, so none but desirable pollen may reach 
and fertilize the flowers of the plants to be used as 
seed producers. 

STATUS AND USES 

Some readers of a statistical turn of mind may be 
disappointed to learn that fig.ures as to the value of 
the annual crops of individual herbs, the acreage de- 
voted to each, the average cost, yield and profit an 
acre, etc., are not obtainable and that the only way 
of determining the approximate standing of the vari- 
ous species is the apparent demand for each in the 
large markets and stores. 

Unquestionably the greatest call is for parsley, 
which is used in restaurants and hotels more exten- 
sively as a garnish than any other herb. In this 
capacity it ranks about equal with watercress and 
lettuce, which both find their chief uses as salads. 
As a flavoring agent it is probably less used than 
sage, but more than any of the other herbs. It is 
chiefly employed in dressings with mild meats such 
as chicken, turkey, venison, veal, with baked fish; 
and for soups, stews, and sauces, especially those 



20 



CULINARY HERBS 



used with boiled meats, fish and fricassees of the 
meats mentioned. Thus it has a wider application 
than any other of the culinary herbs. 

Sage, which is a strongly flavored plant, is used 
chiefly with such fat meats as pprk, goose, duck, and 
various kinds of game. Large quantities are mixed 
with sausage meat and, in some countries, with cer- 
tain kinds of cheese. Throughout the United States 
it is probably the most frequently called into requi- 




Garden Hoes of Various Styles 



sition of all herbs, probably outranking any two of 
the others, with the exception of parsley. 

Thyme and savory stand about equal, and are 
chiefly used like parsley, though both, especially the 
former, are used in certain kinds of sausage. Mar- 
joram, which is similarly employed, comes next, then 
follow balm, fennel, and basil. These milder herbs 
are often mixed for much the same reason that cer- 
tain simple perfumes are blended — to produce a new 
odor — combinations of herbs resulting in a new 
compound flavor. Such compounds are utilized in 
the same way that the elementary herbs are. 



CULINARY HERBS 21 

In classes by themselves are tarragon and spear- 
mint, the former of which is chiefly used as a decoc- 
tion in the flavoring of fish sauces, and the latter as 
the universal dressing with spring lamb. Mint has 
also a more convivial use, but this seems more the 
province of the W. C. T. U. than of this book to dis- 
cuss. 

Dill is probably the most important of the herbs 
whose seeds, rather than their leaves, are used in 
flavoring food other than confectionery. It plays its 
chief role in the pickle barrel. Immense quantities 
of cucumber pickles flavored principally with dill 
are used in the restaurants of the larger cities and 
also by families, the foreign-born citizens and their 
descendants being the chief consumers. The de- 
mand for these pickles is met by the leading pickle 
manufacturers who prepare special brands, gener- 
ally according to German recipes, and sell them to 
the delicatessen and the grocery stores. If they 
were to rely upon me for business, they would soon 
go bankrupt. To my palate the dill pickle appeals 
as almost the acme of disagreeableness. 

NOTABLE INSTANCE OF USES 

The flavors of the various herbs cover a wide 
range, commencing with fennel and ending with 
sage, and are capable of wide application. In one 
case which came under my observation, the cook 
made a celery-flavored stew of some meat scraps. 
Not being wholly consumed, the surviving debris 
appeared a day or two later, in company with other 



22 



CULINARV IIKRIJS 



odds and ends, as the chief actor in a meat pie flav- 
ored with parsley. Alas, a left-over again! "Never 
mind," mused the cook ; and no one who partook of 
the succeeding stew discovered the lurking parsley 
and its overpowered progenitor, the celery, under 
the effectual disguise of summer savory. By an un- 
foreseen circumstance the fragments remaining 
from this last stew did not continue the cycle and 
disappear in another pie. Had this been their fate, 
however, their presence could have been completely 
obscured by sage. This problem in perpetual pro- 




Dried Herbs in Pa:>er and Tin 



gression or culinary homeopathy can be practiced in 
anv kitchen. But husl 



tell it not in the dining- 



room 



METHODS OF CURING 



Culinary herbs may be divided into three groups : 
those whose foliage furnishes the flavor, those whose 



CULIXARV llEKIIS 2^ 

seed is used and those few whose roots are pre- 
pared. In the kitchen, foliage herbs are employed 
either green or as decoctions or dried, .each way 
with its special advocates, advantages and applica- 
tions. 

Green herbs, if freshly and properly gathered, are 
richest in flavoring substances and when added to 
sauces, fricassees, stews, etc., reveal their freshness 
by their particles as well as by their decidedly finer 
flavor. In salads they almost entirely supplant both 
the dried and the decocted herbs, since their fresh 
colors are pleasing to the eye. and their crispness 
to the palate; whereas the specks of the dried herbs 
would be objectionable, and both these and the de- 
ccjctions impart a somewhat inferior flavor to such 
(Wishes. Since herbs cannot, however, always be 
obtained throughout the year, unless they are grown 
in window boxes, they are infused or dried. Both 
infusing and drying are similar processes in them- 
selves, but for best results they are dependent upon 
the observance of a few simple rules. 

No matter in what condition or for what purpose 
they are to be used the flavors of foliage herbs are in- 
variably best in well-developed leaves and shoots 
still in full vigor of growth. With respect to the 
plant as a whole, these flavors are most abundant 
and pleasant just before the flowers appear. And 
since they are generally due to essential oils, which 
are quickly dissipated by heat, they are more abun- 
dant in the morning than after the sun has reached 
the zenith. As a general rule, therefore, best results 
with foliage herbs, especially those to be used for 



24 



CULINARY HERBS 



drying and infusing, may be secured when the plants 
seem ready to flower, the harvest being made as 
soon as the dew has dried and before the day has 
become very warm. The leaves of parsley, however, 
may be gathered as soon as they attain that deep 
green characteristic of the mature leaf; and since 
the leaves are produced continuously for many 
weeks, the mature ones may be removed every week 
or so, a process which encourages the further pro- 
duction of foliage and postpones the 
appearance of the flowering stem. 
To make good infusions the 
freshly gathered, clean foliage 
should be liberally packed in stop- 
pered jars, covered with the choicest 
vinegar, and the jars kept closed. In 
a week or two the fluid will be ready 
for use, but in using it, trials must 
be made to ascertain its strength 
and the quantity necessary to use. 
Usually only the clear liquid is em- 
ployed ; sometimes, however, as with mint, the 
leaves are very finely minced before being bottled 
and both liquid and particles employed. 

Tarragon, mint and the seed herbs, such as dill, 
are perhaps more often used in ordinary cookery as 
infusions than otherwise. An objection to decoc- 
tions is that the flavor of vinegar is not always 
desired in a culinary preparation, and neither is that 
of alcohol or wine, which are sometimes used in the 
same way as vinegar. 




Herb Solution 
Bottle 



CULINARY IIERliS 2$ 

DRYING AND STORING 

When only a small quantity of an herb is to be 
dried, the old plan of hanging- loose bunches from 
the ceiling of a warm, dry attic or a kitchen will 
answer. Better, perhaps, is the use of trays covered 
with clean, stout manilla paper upon which thin 
layers of the leaves are spread. These are placed 
either in hot sunlight or in the warm kitchen where 
warm air circulates freely. They must be turned 
once a day until all the moisture has been evaporated 
from the leaves and the softer, more delicate parts 
have become crisp. Then they may be crunched 
and crumbled between the hands, the stalks and the 
hard parts rejected and the powder placed in air- 
tight glass or earthenware jars or metal cans, and 
stored in a cool place. If there be the slightest trace 
of moisture in the powder, it should be still further 
dried to insure against mold. Prior to any drying- 
process the cut leaves and stems should be thor- 
oughly washed, to get rid of any trace of dirt. 
Before being dried as noted above, the water should 
all be allowed to evaporate. Evaporation may be 
hastened by exposing the herbs to a breeze in a 
shallow, loose basket, a wire tray or upon a table. 
While damp there is little danger of their being 
Ijlown away. As they dry, however, the current of 
air should be more gentle. 

The practice of storing powdered herbs in paper 
or pasteboard packages is bad, since the delicate oils 
readily diffuse through the paper and sooner or later 
the material becomes as valueless for flavoring ])ur- 



JO c'Li.iAARV iii:ki;s 

poses as ordinary hay or straw. This loss of ilavor 
is particiihirly noticeahle with sai;c. whicli is one of 
the easiest hcrl)s to spoil by had niaiiai^cnicnt. h^vcn 
when kept in air-tii^ht glass or tin receptacles, as 
rccomniended, it generally becomes nscless before 
the end of two years. 

\\ hen larg-e quantities of herbs are to be cured a 
fruit e\aporator may be employed, the herbs being; 




Paper Sacks of Dried Herbs for Home I'st 



Spread thiidy upon \vire-bottomed travs so that an 
ample current of air may pass thrcnigh them. Care 
nnist be taken to keep the temperature inside the 
machine below uo degrees. The g-reatest etticiencv 
can be secured by placing the trays of most recently 
gathered herbs at the top, the partially dried ones 
being- lowered to positions nearer the source of heat. 
In this way the fresh, dry. warm air comes in contact 
first with the herbs most nearly dried, remoyes the 



CLMJNAKV lii:RI5S 27 

last vestige of moisture from them and after passing 
tlirough the intervening trays comes to those most 
recently gathered. 

Unless the evaporator be fitted with some mechan- 
ism which will permit all the trays to 1)e lowered 
simultaneously, the work of changing the trays may 
seem too irksome to be warranted. But where no 
changes of trays are made, greater care must be 
given to the bottom trays because they will dry out 
faster than those at the top. Indeed in such cases, 
after the apparatus is full, it becomes almost essen- 
tial to move the trays lower, be- 
cause if fresh green herbs, particu- 
larly those which are somewhat 
wet, be placed at the bottom of the 
series, the air will become so 

' . f ^1 Hand Cultivator and 

charged with moisture from them scarifier 

that the upper layers may for a 
time actually absorb this moisture and thus take 
longer to dry. Besides this, they will surely lose 
some of their flavoring ingredients— the very things 
which it is desired to save. 

No effort should be made to hasten the drying 
process by increasing the temperature, since this is 
likely to result as just mentioned. A personal ex- 
perience may teach the reader a lesson. I once had 
a large amount of parsley to cure and thought to 
expedite matters by using the oven of a gas stove. 
Suffice it to tell that the whole quantity was ruined, 
not a pinch was saved. In spite of the closest regu- 
lation the heat grew too great and the flavor was 
literallv cooked out of the leaves. The delicate oil 




28 CULINARY HERBS 

saturated everything in the house, and for a week 
or more the whole place smelled as if chicken fricas- 
see was being made upon a wholesale plan. 

Except as garnishes, herbs are probably more 
frequently used in a dry state than in all other ways 
put together. Perhaps this is because the method of 
preparing them seems simpler than that of infusion, 
because large quantities may be kept in small spaces, 
and because they can be used for every purpose that 
the fresh plants or the decoctions can be employed. 
In general, however, they are called into requisition 
principally in dressings, soups, stews and sauces in 
which their particles are not considered objection- 
able. If clear sauces or soups are desired, the dried 
herbs may still be used to impart the flavor, their 
particles being removed by straining. 

The method of preparing dill, anise, caraway and 
other herbs whose seed is used, differs from that 
employed with the foliage herbs mainly in the ripe- 
ness of the plants. These must be gathered as soon 
as they show signs of maturity but before the seeds 
are ready to drop from them. In all this work espe- 
cial care must be paid to the details of cleaning. For 
a pleasing appearance the seed heads must be gath- 
ered before they become the least bit weather- 
beaten. This is as essential as to have the seed ripe. 
Next, the seed must be perfectly clean, free from 
chaff, bits of broken stems and other debris. Much 
depends upon the manner of handling as well as 
upon harvesting. Care must be taken in threshing 
to avoid bruising the seeds, particularly the oily 
ones, by pounding too hard or by tramping upon 



CULINARY HERBS 29 

them. Threshing should never be done in damp 
weather; always when the air is very dry. 

In clear weather after the dew has disappeared 
the approximately ripe plants or seed heads must be 
harvested and spread thinly — never packed firmly — 
upon stout cloth such as ticking, sailcloth, or fac- 
tory cotton. A warm, open shed where the air cir- 
culates freely is an admirable place, since the natural 
temperature of the air is sufficient in the case of 
seeds to bring about good results. Usually in less 
than a week the tops will have become dry enough 
to be beaten out with a light flail or a rod. In this 
operation great care must be taken to avoid bruising 
or otherwise injuring the seed. The beating should 
therefore be done in a sheet spread upon a lawn 
or at least upon short grass. The force of the blows 
will thus be lessened and bruising avoided. 

For cleaning herb seeds sieves in all sizes from 
No. 2 to No. 40 are needed. The sizes represent 
various finenesses of mesh. All above No. 8 should 
be of brass wire, because brass is considerably more 
durable and less likely to rust than iron. The cloths 
upon which the herbs are spread should be as large 
as the floor upon which the threshing is to be done 
except when the floor is without cracks, but it is 
more convenient to use cloths always, because they 
facilitate handling and temporary storing. Light 
cotton duck is perhaps best, but the weave must be 
close. A convenient size is'io x lo feet. 

After the stalks have been removed the seed 
should be allowed to remain for several days longer 
in a very thin layer— the thinner the better — and 



30 CULINARY HERBS 

turnea ever}^ day to remove the last vestige of mois- 
ture. It will be even better still to have the drving 
sheet suspended so air may circulate below as well 
as above the seed. Not less than a week for the 
smallest seeds and double that time for the larger 
ones is necessary. To avoid loss or injury it is im- 
perative that the seed be dry before it is put in the 
storage packages. Of course, if infusions are to be 
made all this is unnecessary; the seed may be put in 
the liquor- as soon as the broken stems, etc., are 
removed subsequent to threshing. 

HERBS AS GARNISHES 

As garnishes several of the culinary herbs are 
especially valuable. This is particularly true of 
parsley, which is probably more widely used than 
any other plant, its only close rivals being water- 
cress and lettuce, which, however, are generally 
inferior to it in delicacy of tint and form of foliage, 
the two cardinal virtues of a garnish. 

Parsley varieties belong to three principal groups, 
based upon the form of the foliage: (i) Plain varie- 
ties, in which the leaves are nearly as they are in 
nature ; (2) moss-curled varieties in which they are 
curiously and pleasingly contorted; and (3) fern 
leaved, in which the foliage is not curled, but much 
divided into threadlike parts. 

The moss-curled varieties are far more popular 
than the other two groups put together and are the 
only ones used especially as garnishes with meat 
dishes in the hotels and restaurants of the large 



CULINAin' TIKRIJS 3 1 

cities. The plain-leaved sorts cannot be compared 
in any way except in flavor with the varieties of the 
other groups. But the fern-leaved kinds, which 
unfortunately have not become commercially well 
known, surpass even the finest varieties of the moss- 
curled group, not only in their exquisite and delicate 
form, but in their remarkably rich, dark-green color- 
ing and blending of light and shade. But the mere 
fact that these varieties are not known in the cities 
should not preclude their popularity in suburban and 
town gardens and in the country, where every 
householder is monarch of his own soil and can sat- 
isfy very many aesthetic and gustatory desires with- 
out reference to market dictum, that bane alike of 
the market gardener and his customer. 

Several other herbs — tansy, savory, thyme, mar- 
joram, basil, and balm — make pretty garnishes, but 
since they are not usually considered so pleasant to 
nibble at, they are rarely used. The pleasing efifect 
of any garnish may be heightened by adding here 
and there a few her1j flowers such as thyme or 
savory. Other flowers may be used in the same 
way ; for instance, nasturtium. 

There is no reason why herbs so used shoula not 
l)e employed several times over, and afterwards dried 
or bottled in vinegar if they be free from gravy, oils, 
fats, etc., and if in sufficient quantity to make such 
a use worth while. Other pretty garnishes which 
are easily obtained are corn salad, peppergrass, 
mustard, fennel, and young leaves of carrot. But 
surpassing all these in pleasing and novel effects are 
the curled, pink, red and white-leaved varieties of 



32 



CULINARY HERBS 



chicory and nasturtium flowers alone or resting 
upon parsley or other delicate foliage. So much by 
way of digression. 

PROPAGATION 

SEEDS 

Most herbs may be readily propagated by means 
of seeds. Some, however, such as tarragon, which 
does not produce seed, and several other perennial 
kinds, are propagated by division, layers, or cuttings. 




Flat of Seedlings Ready to Be Transplanted 

In general, propagation by means of seed is consid- 
ered most satisfactory. Since the seeds in many in- 
stances are small or are slow to germinate, they are 
usually sown in shallow boxes or seed pans. When 
the seedlings are large enough to be handled they 
are transplanted to small pots or somewhat deeper 
flats or boxes, a couple of inches being allowed 
between the plants. AMien conditions are favorable 



CULINARY HEKIJS 33 

in the garden; tnat is, when the soil is moist and 
warm and the season has become settled, the plant- 
lets may be removed to permanent quarters. 

If the seed be sown out of doors, it is a good prac- 
tice to sow a few radish seeds in the same row with 
the herb seeds, particularly if these latter take a long 
time to germinate or are very small, as marjoram, 
savory and thyme. The variety of radish chosen 
should be a turnip-rooted sort of exceedingly rapid 
growth, and with few and small leaves. The rad- 
ishes serve to mark the rows and thus enable culti- 
vation to commence much earlier than if the herbs 
were sown alone. They should be pulled early — 
the earlier the better after the herb plantlets appear. 
Never should the radishes be allowed to crowd the 
herbs. 

By the narration of a little mcident, I may illus- 
trate the necessity of sowing these radish seeds 
thinly. Having explained to some juvenile garden- 
ers that the radish seeds should be dropped so far 
apart among the other seeds that they would look 
lonesome in the bottoms of the rows — not more 
than six seeds to the foot — and having illustrated 
my meaning by sowing a row myself, I let each one 
take his turn at sowing. While I watched them all 
went well. But, alas, for precept and example! To 
judge by the general result after the plants were up, 
the seedsman might justifiably have guaranteed the 
seed to germinate about 500 per cent, because each 
boy declared that he sowed his rows thinly. Never- 
theless, there was a stand of radishes that would 
have gladdened the heart of a lawn maker! The 



34 



CULIXARV HERBS 



rows looked like regiments drawn up in close order 
and not, as was desired, merely lines of scattered 
skirmishers. In many places there Avere more than 
lOO to the foot ! Fortunately the variety was a 
quick-maturing kind and the crop, for such it be- 
came, was harvested before any damage was done 
the slow-appearing seedlings, whose positions the 
radishes were intended to indicate. 

CUTTINGS 

No herbs are so easy to propagate by means of 
cuttings as spearmint, peppermint, and their rela- 
tives which have underground stems. Every joint 
of these stems will produce a new plant if placed 
in somewhat moist soil. Often, however, this abil- 
ity is a disadvantage, because the plants are prone 

to spread and become 
a nuisance unless 
watched. Hence such 
plants should be 
placed where they will 
not have their roots 
cut by tools used close 
to them. When they 
their borders should be 
trimmed with a sharp spade pushed vertically full 
depth into the soil and all the earth beyond the 
clump thus restricted should be shaken out with a 
garden fork and the cut pieces of mint removed. 
Further, the forked-over ground should be hoed 
every week during the remainder of the season, to 
destroy lurking plantlets. 








Glass-Covered Propagating Box 



seem to be extending 



CULINARY HERBS 35 

The other perennial and biennial herbs may be 
readily propagated by means of stem cuttings or 
"slips," which are generally as easy to manage as 
verbenas, geraniums and other "house plants." The 
cuttings may be made of either fully ripened wood 
of the preceding or the current season, or they may 
be of firm, not succulent green stems. After trim- 
ming off all but a few of the upper leaves, which 
should be clipped to reduce transpiration, the cut- 
tings—never more than 4 or 5 inches long — should 
be plunged nearly full depth 
in well-shaded, rather light, 
porous, well-drained loam, v^Jm, 
where they should remain 
undisturbed until they show 
evidences of growth. Then 
they may be transplanted. 
While in the cutting bed 
they must never be allowed piower Pot pr"opa«atin'g Bed 
to become dry. This is espe- 
cially true of greenwood cuttings made during the 
summer. These should always have the coolest, 
shadiest corner in the garden. The cuttings taken 
in the spring should be set in the garden as soon 
as rooted; but the summer cuttings, especially if 
taken late, should generally be left in their beds un- 
til the following spring. They may, however, be 
removed for winter use to window boxes or the 
greenhouse benches. 

Often the plants grown in window boxes may 
supply the early cuttings, which may be rooted in 
the house. Where a greenhouse is available, a few 




36 CULINARY HERBS 

plants may be transplanted in autumn either from 
the garden or from the bed of summer cuttings just 
mentioned, kept in a rather cool temperature dur- 
ing the winter and drawn upon for cuttings as the 
stems become sufficiently mature. The rooting may 
take place in a regular cutting bench, or it may occur 
in the soil out of doors, the plantlets being trans- 
planted to pots as soon as they have rooted well. 

If a large number of plants is desired, a hotbed 
may be called into requisition in early spring and the 
plants hardened off in cold frames as the season ad- 
vances. Hardening oft' is essential with all plants 
grown under glass for outdoor planting, because 
unless the plants be inured to outside temperatures 
before being placed in the open ground, they will 
probably suft"er a check, if they do not succumb 
wholly to the unaccustomed conditions. If well 
managed they should be injured not at all. 

LAYERS 

Several of the perennial herbs, such as sage, sav- 
ory, and thyme, may be easily propagated by means 
of layers, the stems being pegged down and cov- 
ered lightly with earth. If the moisture and the 
temperature be favorable, roots should be formed in 
three or four weeks and the stem separated from the 
parent and planted. Often there may be several 
branches upon the stem, and each of these may be 
used as a new plantlet provided it has some roots 
or a rooted part of the main stem attached to it. By 
this method I have obtained nearly 100 rooted plants 



CULINARY HIZRHS 



37 



from a single specimen i>i 1 halt's Mammoth sage 
grown in a greenhouse. And from the same plant 
at the same time I have taken more than loo 
cuttings. This is not an exceptional feat with this 
variety, the plants of which are very branchy and 
often exceed a yard in diameter. 

Layering is probably the simplest and most satis- 
factory method of artificial propagation under ordi- 
nary conditions, since the stems are almost sure 
to take root if undisturbed long enough ; and since 
rooted plants can hardly fail to gn^vv if i)r(jperly 
transplanted. Then, too, less apparent time is taken 
than with plants grown from cuttings and far less 
than with those grown from seed. In other words, 
they generally produce a crop sooner than the plants 
obtained by the other methods set in operation at 
the same time. 

DIVISION 

Division of the clumps of such herbs as mint is 
often practiced, a sharp spade or a lawn edger being 
used to cut the clump into pieces about 6 inches 
square. The squares are then placed in new quar- 
ters and packed firmly in place with soil. This 
method is, however, the least satisfactory of all 
mentioned, because it too frequently deprives the 
])lants of a large amount of roots, thus impairs the 
growth, and during the first season or two mav 
result in unsymmetrical clumps. If done in early 
si)ring before growth starts, least damage is done 
to the plants. 




38 



CULINARY HliRIJS 39 

Artificial methods of propagation, especially 
those of cuttage and layerage, have the further ad- 
vantage over propagation by means of seeds, in the 
perpetuation of desired characters of individual 
I)lants, one or more of which may appear in any 
plantation. These, particularly if more productive 
than the others, should always ])e utilized as stock, 
not merely because their progeny artificially ob- 
tained are likely to retain the character and thus 
probably increase the yield of the plantation, but 
principally because they may form the nucleus of a 
choice strain. 

Except in the respects mentioned, these methods 
of propagation are not notably superior to propaga- 



Marker for Hotbeds and Cold Frames 

tion by means of good seed, which, by the way, is 
not overabundant. By the consumption of a little 
extra time, any desired number of plants may be 
obtained from seed. At any rate, seed is what one 
must start with in nearly every case. 

TRANSPLANTING 

No more care is required in transplanting herbs 
than in resetting other plants, but unless a few es- 
sentials are realized in practice the results are sure 
to be unsatisfactory. Of course, the ideal way is to 
grow the plants in small flower pots and when they 



40 CULINARY IIEKBS 

liave formed a ball of roots, to set them in the gar- 
den. The next best is to grow them in seed pans 
or flats (shallow boxes) in which they should be set 
several inches apart as soon as large enough to 
handle, and in which they should be allowed to 
grow for a few weeks, to form a mass of roots. 
When these plants are to be set in the garden they 
should be broken apart by hand with as little loss of 
roots as possible. ■ 

But where neither oi these plans can be practiced, 
as in the growing of the plants in little nursery beds. 




Leading Forms of Trowels 



either in hotbeds, cold frames or in the garden bor- 
der, the plants should be "pricked out," that is, 
transplanted while very small to a second nursery 
bed. in order to make them "stocky" or sturdy and 
better able to take care of themselves when removed 
to tinal quarters. If this be done there should be no 
need of clipping back the tops to balance an exces- 
sive loss of roots, a necessity in case the plants are 
not so treated, or in case they become large or lanky 
in the second bed. 

In all cases it is best to transplant when the 



CULINARY IIKKIJS 4T 

ground is moist, as it is immediately after being dug 
or plowed. But this cannot always be arranged, 
neither can one always count upon a shower to 
moisten the soil just after the plants have been set. 
If advantage can be taken of an approaching rain- 
fall, it should be done, because this is the ideal time 
for transplanting. It is much better than immedi- 
ately after, which is perhaps next best. Transplant- 
ing in cloudy weather and toward evening is better 
than in sunny weather and in the morning. 

Since the weather is prone to be coy, if not fickle, 
the manual part of transplanting should always be 
properly done. The plants should always be taken 
up with as little loss of roots as possible, be kept ex- 
posed to the air as short a time as possible, and when 
set in the ground have the soil packed firmly about 
their roots, so firmly that the operator may think 
it is almost too firm. After setting, the surface soil 
should ])e made loose, so as to act as a mulch and 
prevent the loss of moisture from the packed lower 
layer. If the ground be dry a hole may be made 
beside the plant and filled with water — LOTS OF 
WATER — and when it has soaked away and the soil 
seems to be drying, the surface should be made 
smooth and loose as already mentioned. If possible 
such times should be avoided, because of the extra 
work entailed and the probable increased loss due to 
the unfavorable conditions. 

IMPLEMENTS 

When herbs are grown upon a commercial scale 
the implements needed will be the same as for gen- 



42 CULINARY HERBS 

eral trucking — plows, harrows, weeder, etc. — to fit 
the soil for the hand tools. Much labor can be saved 
by using hand-wheel drills, cultivators, weeders and 
the other tools that have become so wonderfully 
popular within the past decade or two. Some typi- 
cal kinds are shown in these pages. These imple- 
ments are indispensable in keeping the surface soil 
loose and free from weeds, especially between the 
rows and even fairly close to the plants. In doing 
this they save an immense amount of labor and time, 
since they can be used with both hands and the 
muscles of the body with less exertion than the hoe 
and the rake require. 

Nothing, however, can take the place of the hand 
tools for getting among and around the plants. The 
work that weeding entails is tiresome, but must be 
done if success is to crown one's efforts. While the 
plants are little some of the weeders may be used. 
Those w^ith a blade or a series of blades are adapted 
for cutting weeds off close to the surface ; those with 
prongs are useful only for making the soil loose 
closer to the plants than the rake dare be run by the 
average man. Hoes of various types are useful 
when the plants become somewhat larger or when 
one does not have the wheel cultivators. In all 
well-regulated gardens there should be a little liberal 
selection of the various wheel and hand tools. 

Only one of the hand tools demands any special 
comment. Many gardeners like to use a dibble for 
transplanting. AVith this tool it is so easy to make 
a hole, and to press the soil against the plant dropped 
in that hole ! But I believe that many of the failures 



CULINARY HERBS 



43 



in transplanting result from the niiproper use of 
this tool. Unless the dibble be properly operated 
the plant may be left suspended in a hole, the sides 
of which are more or less hard and impervious to the 
tiny, tender rootlets that strive to penetrate them. 
From my own observation of the use of this tool, I 
believe that the proper place for the dibble in the 
novice's garden is in the attic, side 
by side with the ''unloaded" shot- 
gun, where it may be viewed with 
apprehension. 

In spite of this warning, if anyone 
is hardy enough to use a dibble, let 
him choose the flat style, not the 
round one. The proper way is to 
thrust the tool straight down, , at 
right angles to the direction of the 
row, and press the soil back and 
forth with the flat side of the blade 
until a hole, say 2 or 3 inches across 
and 5 or 6 inches deep, has been 
formed. In the hole the plantlet should then be sus- 
pended so all the roots and a little of the stem beneath 
the surface will be covered when the soil is replaced. 
Replacing the soil is the important part of the opera- 
tion. The dibble must now be thrust in the soil 
again, parallel and close to the hole, and the soil 
pushed over so the hole will be completely closed 
from bottom to top. Firming the soil completes the 
operation. 

There is much less danger of leaving a hole with 
the flat than with the round dibble, which is almost 




Wooden Dibbles 



44 CULINARY IIEKBS 

sure to leave a hole beneath the plant. I remem- 
ber ha\ing trouble with some lily plants which were 
not thriving^. Supposing that insects were at the 
roots. I carefully drew the earth away from one 
side, and found that the earth had not been brought 
up carefully beneath the bulbs and that the roots 
were hanging 4 or 5 inches beneath the bulbs in the 
hole left by the dibble and not properly closed by 
the careless gardener. 

I therefore warn every dibble user to be sure to 
crowd over the soil well, especially at the lower end 
of the hole. For my own part. I rely upon my hands. 
Digits existed long before dibbles and they are much 
more reliable. What matter if some soil sticks to 
them : it is not unresponsive to the wooin.g of water! 

LOCATION OF HERB GARDEN 

In general, the most favorable exposure for an 
herb garden is toward the south, but lacking such 
an exposure should not deter one from planting 
herbs on a northern slope if this be the only site 
available. Indeed, such sites often prove remark- 
ably good it other conditions are propitious and 
proper attention is given the plants. Similarly, a 
smooth, gently sloping surface is especially desir- 
able, but even in gardens in which the ground is 
almost billowy the gardener may often take advan- 
tage of the irregularities by planting the moisture- 
loving plants in the hollows and those that like dry 
situations upon the ridges. Nothing like turning 
disadvantages to account ! 



CULINARV llIiRl'.S 



45 



Nc) matter what the nature of the surface and the 
exposure, it is always advisable to give the herhs 
the most sunny spots in the garden, plaees where 
shade ivoin trees, barns, other buildings and from 
fences cannot reach them. This is suggested be- 
cause the development of the oils, upon which the 




Combination Hand Plow, Harrow, Cultivator and Seed Drill 



tiavoring of most of the herbs mainly depends, is 
best in full sunshine and the plants have more sub- 
stance than when grown in the shade. 

THE SOIL AND ITS PREPARATION 

As to the kind of soil. Hobson's choice ranks first! 
It is not necessary to move into the next county 
just to have an herb garden. This is one of the cases 
in which the gardener may well make the best of 
however bad a bargain he has. 



46 CULINARY HERBS 

But supposing that a selection be possible, a light 
sandy loam, underlaid by a porous subsoil so as to 
be well drained, should be given the preference, 
since it is warmed quickly, easily worked, and may 
be stirred early in the season and after a rain. Clay 
loams are less desirable upon every one of the points 
mentioned, and very sandy soils also. But if Hob- 
son has one of these, there will be an excellent op- 
portunity to cultivate philosophy as well as herbs. 
And the gardener may be agreeably surprised at the 
results obtained. No harm in trying! ^^dlatever 
the quality of the soil, it should not be very rich,, 
because in such soils the growth is apt to be rank 
and the quantity of oil small in proportion to the 
leafage. 

The preparation of the soil should commence 
as soon as the grass in the neighborhood is seen to 
be sprouting. Well-decayed manure should be 
spread at the rate of not less than a bushel nor more 
than double that quantity to the square yard, and 
as soon as the soil is dry enough to crumble readily 
it should be dug or plowed as deeply as possible 
without bringing up the subsoil. This operation of 
turning over the soil should be thoroughly per- 
formed, the earth being pulverized as much as possi- 
ble. To accomplish this no hand tool surpasses the 
spading fork. 

One other method is, however, superior especially 
Avhen practiced upon the heavier soils — fall plowing 
or digging. In practicing this method care should 
be taken to plow late when the soil, moistened by 
autumn rains, will naturally come up in big lumps. 



CULINARY HERBS 47 

These lumps must he left undisturbed during the 
winter for frost to act upon. All that will be neces- 
sary in the spring will be to rake or harrow the 
ground. The clods will crumble. 

I once had occasion to try this method upon about 
25 acres of land which had been made by pumping 
mud from a river bottom upon a marsh thus con- 
verted into dry ground by the sedimentation. Three 
sturdy horses were needed to do the plowing. The 
earth turned up in chunks as 
large as a man's body. Con- 
trary to my plowman's doubts 
and predictions. Jack Frost 
did a grand milling business 
that winter! Clods that could 
hardly be broken in the au- ^^^^^^^ ^^^.^^ CuitivaJ 
tumn with a sledge hammer 

crumbled down in the spring at the touch of a 
garden rake ! 

CULTIVATION 

Having thoroughly fined the surface of the garden 
by harrowing and raking, the seeds may be sown or 
the plants transplanted as already noted. From this 
time forward the surface must be kept loose and 
open by surface cultivation every week or lo days 
and after every shower that forms a crust, until the 
plants cover the whole ground. This frequent cul- 
tivation is not merely for the purpose of keeping 
the weeds in check ; it is a necessary operation to 
keep the immediate surface layer powdery, in which 




48 CULINARY HERBS 

condition it will act as a mulch to prevent the loss 
of water from the lower soil layers. When kept in 
perfect condition by frequent stirring the immediate 
surface should be powdery. Yes, powdery! Within 
I inch of the surface, however, the color will be 
darker from the presence of moisture. AMien sup- 
plied with such conditions, failures must be attrib- 
uted to other causes than lack of water. 

DOUBLE CROPPING 

When desired, herbs may be used as secondary 
crops to follow such early vegetables as early cab- 
bage and peas ; or. if likely to be 
needed still earlier, after radishes, 
transplanted lettuce and onions 
grown from sets. These primary 
crops, having reached marketable 
size, are removed, the ground 
stirred and the herb plants trans- 
planted from nursery beds or cold 
frames. 

Often the principal herbs — 
sage, savory, marjoram and 
thyme — are set close together, 
both the rows and the plants in 
them being nearer than recom- 
mended further on. The object of 
such practice is to get several crops in the follow- 
ing way: When the plants in the rows commence 
to crowd one another each alternate plant is re- 
moved and sold or cured. This may perhaps be 



2- 





- 





11 3X 


\ 


X 


\ 


2- 





- 





11 3X 


1 


X 


1 


- 





- 





1 X 


1 


X 


» 


- 





- 





1 X 


1 


X 


1 


- 





~ 





Thinning Scheme 
Harvesting 


for 



CULINARV HERBS 49 

done a second time. Then when the rows begin to 
crowd, each alternate row is removed and the 
remainder allowed to develop more fully. The chief 
advantages of this practice are not only that several 
crops may be gathered, but each plant, being sup- 
plied with plenty of room and light, will have fewer 
yellow or dead leaves than when crowded. In the 
diagram the numbers show which plants are re- 
moved first, second, third and last. 

HERB RELATIONSHIPS 

Those readers who delight to delve among pedi- 
grees, genealogies and family connections, may per- 
haps be a little disappointed to learn that, in spite 
of the odorous nature of the herbs, there are none 
whose history reveals a skeleton in the closet. They 
are all harmless. Now and then, to be sure, there 
occur records of a seemingly compromising nature, 
such as the effects attributed to the eating or even 
the handling of celery; but such accounts, harrow- 
ing as they may appear, are insufficient to warrant 
a bar sinister. Indeed, not only is the mass of evi- 
dence in favor of the defendant, but it casts a reflec- 
tion upon the credibility of the plaintiff, who may 
usually be shown to have indulged immoderately, 
to have been frightened by hallucinations or even 
to have arraigned the innocent for his own guilt. 
Certain it is that there is not one of the sweet herbs 
mentioned in this volume that has not long enjoyed 
a more or less honored place in the cuisine of all the 
continents, and this in spite of the occasional toot- 
ings of some would-be detractor. 




50 CULINARY HERBS 

Like those classes of society that cannot move 
with "the four hundred," the herbs are very ex- 
clusive, more exclusive indeed, than their superiors, 
the other vegetables. Very few members have they 
admitted that do not belong to two approved fami- 
lies, and such unrelated ones as do reach the 
charmed circles must first prove their worthiness 
and then hold their places by intrinsic merit. 

These two coteries are known 
as the Labiat?e and the Umbel- 
liferse, the former including the 
sages, mints and their connec- 
tions ; the latter the parsleys and 

Center Row Hand ^hcir rclativCS. \\'ith thc CXCCp- 

Cuitivator ^'^j^ q£ tarragou, which belongs 

to the Compositae, parsley and a few of its 
relatives which have deserted their own ranks, 
all the important leaf herbs belong to the Labi- 
attc; and without a notable exception all the 
herbs whose seeds are used for flavoring belong to 
the Umbelliferre. Fennel-flower, which belongs to 
the natural order Ranunculace^e, or crowfoot fam- 
ily, is a candidate for admission to the seed sodality ; 
costmary and southernwood of the Compositie seek 
membership with the leaf faction ; rue of the Ru- 
taceae and tansy of the Composit?e, in spite of suspen- 
sion for their boldness and ill-breeding, occasionally 
force their way back into the domain of the leaf 
herbs. Alarigold, a composite, forms a clique by 
itself, the most exclusive club of all. It has 
admitted no members! And there seem to be no 
candidates. 



CULINARY HEKHS 5 1 

'J^he important memljers of the Labiatse are: 

Sage (Salvia officinalis, Linn.). 

Savory (Saturcia hortensis, Linn.). 

Savory, winter (Saturcia montana, Linn.). 

Thyme (lliymus vulgaris, Linn. J. 

Marjoram (Origanum Marjoram; O. Onitcs, Linn.; 

and M. vulgare, Linn.j. 
Balm (Melissa officinalis, Linn.j. 
l^asil (Ocimum Basilicum, Linn., and O. minimum, 

Linn.j. 
S]jcarmint (Mentha spicata, Linn., or M. viridis, 

Linn.j. 
Peppermint (Mentha Piperita, Linn.j. 
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis, Linn.). 
Clary (Salvia Sclarea, Linn.). 
Pennyroyal (Mentha Pulegium, Linn.). 
Horehound (Marrubium vulgare, Linn.). 
Hyssop (Hyssopus vulgaris, Linn.j. 
Catnip (Nepeta Cataria, Linn.j. 
Lavender (Lavandula vera, D. C. ; L. spica, D. C). 

These plants, which are mostly natives of mild 
climates of the old w^orld, are characterized by hav- 
ing square stems; opposite, simple leaves and 
branches ; and more or less two-lipped flowers which 
a])pear in the axils of the leaves, occasionally alone, 
but usually several together, forming little whorls, 
which often compose loose or compact spikes or 
racemes. Each fertile blossom is followed by four 
little seedlike fruits in the bottom of the calyx, 
which remains attached to the plant. The foliage is 
generally jjlentifully dotted with minute glands that 



52 CULINARY HERBS 

contain a volatile oil. npon which depends the aronui 
and piquancy peculiar to the individual species. 

The leading species of the Umbellitenv are : 
Parsky {Ciinoii Pctrosclinuni, I'enth. and llook.V 
Dill (Ancthum gravcolois, Linn.V 
Fennel {Faniculum officinale, IJnn.V 
Angelica (ArcJiiVigcIica offici)iaIis. llootni.V 
Anise (Pirn pin cUa anisiim, Linn.). 
Caraway (Canim Canii, Linn.). 
Coriander (Coriandnoji sati:-i(})i. Linn.). 
Chervil (Scandi.v Cere folium, Linn.). 
Cumin or Cummin (Cuminum Cyminum, Linn.). 
Lovage (Lcz'isticiim officinale, Koch.). 
Samphire (CritJimum maritiwum, Linn.). 

Like the members of the pre- 
ceding group, the species of the 
L^mbellifenv are principally na- 
tives of mild climates of the old 
world, but many of them extend 
Hand Plow farther north into the cold parts 

of the continent, even beyond the 
Arctic Circle in some cases. They have cylindrical. 
usually hollow stems ; alternate, generally com- 
pound leaves the basis of whose stalks ensheath the 
branches or stems : and small flowers almost always 
arranged in compound terminal umbels. The fruits 
are composed of two seedlike dry carpels, each con- 
taining a single seed, and usually separating when 
ripe. Each carpel bears five longitudinal prominent 
ribs and several, often four, lesser intermediate ones, 
in the intervals between which numerous oil ducts 
have their openings from the interior of the fruit. 




CIJIJNARY lll<:i<l'.,S 5;5 

'I'lic oil is generally found in more or less ahnndancc 
also in oilier parts of the |>laiil, hnt is usually most 
])k'iiliful in the fruits. 

The mcnil)crs of the ("oniposila.' used as sweet 
herbs are, with the ex(-e]>tion of tarra^'"on, (■ojnj)ara- 
tively iinimp(jrtant, and exee]>t for liavin^'- their flow- 
ers in (lose heads "on a coinnion reee])ta(le, sur- 
rounderl hy an involucre," ha\e few eonsj>icuoiis 
eharaeters in eomnion. No further space excei)t tliat 
recjuired for their enumeration need here he devoted 
to them. And this remark will a]»idy also to the 
other two herhs mentioned further helow. 

COMPOSITiE 

Marigold, IV)t (Calendula o/Jicinalis, I.inn.j. 
'J\Hnsy (1 anacctum vulgaris, JJnn.j. 
Tarragon (Artemisia Dracunculus, IJnn.). 
Southernwood (Artemisia Abrotanum, ijnn.j. 

RUTACE^ 

J<ue ( Kuta (jraveolens, Linn.). 

BORAGINACE^ 

P>orage (liorago officinalis, Ijini.j. 

RANUNCULACEiE 

i'Y'imel-flower (Niyella satira, Ij'nn.j. 

iiefore dismissing this section of tlie subject, it 
may be interesting to glance (n er tlie list of names 



54 CULINARY HERBS 

once more. Seven of these plants were formerly so 
prominent in medicine that they were designated 
''official" and nearly all the others were extensively 
used by physicians. At the present day there are 
very few that have not passed entirely out of official 
medicine and even out of domestic practice, at least 
so far as their intrinsic qualities are concerned. 
Some, to be sure, are still employed because of their 
pleasant flavors, which disguise the disagreeable 
taste of other drugs. But this is a very different 
matter. 

One of the most notable of these is fennel. What 
wonders could that plant not perform 300 years ago ! 
In Parkinson's "Theatricum Botanicum" (1640) its 
''vertues" are recorded. Apart from its use as food, 
for which, then, as now, it was highly esteemed, 
without the attachment of any medicinal qualities as 
an esculent, it was considered efficacious in cases of 
gout, jaundice, cramps, shortness of breath, wheez- 
ing of the lungs ; for cleansing of the blood and im- 
proving the complexion ; to use as an eye-water or 
to increase the flow of milk ; as a remedy for serpent 
bites or an antidote for poisonous herbs and mush- 
rooms ; and for people who "are growen fat to abate 
their unwieldinesse and make them more gaunt and 
lanke." 

But let us peep into the 19th edition of the United 
States Dispensatory. Can this be the same fennel 
which *'is one of our most grateful aromatics," and 
which, because of **the absence of any highly ex- 
citant property," is recommended for mixing with 
unpleasant medicines? Ask any druggist, and he 



CULINARY HERBS 55 

will say it is used for little else nowadays than for 
making a tea to give babies for wind on their stom- 
achs. Strange, but true it is! Similar statements 
if not more remarkable ones could be made about 
many of the other herbs herein discussed. Many of 
these are spoken of as "formerly considered specific" 
for such and such troubles but ''now known to be 
inert." 

The cause is not far to seek. An imaginative and 
superstitious people attached fanciful powers to 
these and hundreds of other plants which the inter- 
vening centuries have been unable wholly to eradi- 
cate, for among the more ignorant classes, especially 
of Europe, many of these relics of a dark age still 
persist. 

But let us not gloat over our superior knowledge. 
After a similar lapse of time, may not our vaunted 
wisdom concerning the properties of plants look as 
ridiculous to the delver among our musty volumes ? 
Indeed, it may, if we may judge by the discoveries 
and investigations of only the past fifty years. Dur- 
ing this time a surprisingly large number of plants 
have been proved to be not merely innocuous instead 
of poisonous, as they were reputed, but fit for 
human food and even of superior excellence ! 

THE HERB LIST 

Angelica (Archangclica officinalis, HoFm.), a bien- 
nial or perennial herb of the natural order Umbel- 
liferse, so called from its supposed medicinal quali- 
ties. It is believed to be a native of Syria, from 




Prophecy of Many Toothsome Dishes 



CULINAKV IIEKHS 5/ 

whence it has spread to many cool European 
climates, especially Lapland and the Alps, where it 
has become naturalized. 

Description. Its roots are long, spindle-shaped, 
fleshy, and sometimes weigh three pounds ; its stems 
stout, herbaceous, fluted, often more than 4 feet tall,, 
and hollow; its leaves long-stalked, frequently 3 
feet in length, reddish purple at the clasping bases, 
and composed, in the larger ones, of numerous small 
leaflets, in three principal groups, which are each 
subdivided into three lesser groups ; its flowers yel- 
lowish or greenish, small and numerous, in large 
roundish umbels ; its seeds pale yellow, membran- 
ous-edged, oblong flattened on one side, convex on 
the other, which is marked with three conspicuous 
ribs. 

Cultivation. Since the seeds lose their vitality 
rapidly, rarely being viable after the first year, they 
should be sown as soon as ripe in late summer or 
early autumn, or not later than the following spring 
after having been kept during the winter in a cold 
storeroom. The soil should be moderately rich, 
rather light, deep, well drained, but moist and well 
supplied with humus. It should be deeply prepared 
and kept loose and open as long as tools can be used 
among the plants, which may be left to care for 
themselves as soon as they shade the ground well. 

In the autumn, the seeds may be sown where the 
plants are to remain or preferably in a nursery bed, 
which usually does not need protection during the 
winter. In the spring a mild hotbed, a cold frame 
or a nursery bed in the garden may be used, accord- 



58 CULINARY HERBS 

ing to the earliness of planting. Half an inch is deep 
enough to cover the seeds. The seedlings should be 
trajisplanted when still small for their first summer's 
growth, a space of about 18 inches being allowed 
between them. In the autumn they should be re- 
moved to permanent quarters, the plants being set 3 
feet apart. 

If well grown, the leaves may be cut for use dur- 
ing the summer after transplanting; the plants may 
not, however, produce seed until the following sea- 
son. Unless seed is desired, the tops should be cut 
and destroyed at or before flowering time, because, 
if this be not done, the garden is apt to become over- 
run with angelica seedlings. If the seeds are 
wanted, they should be gathered and treated as indi- 
cated on page 28. After producing seed, the plants 
frequently die ; but by cutting down the tops when 
the flower heads first appear, and thus preventing 
the formation of seed, the plants may continue for 
several years longer. 

Uses. The stems and leaf stalks, while still succu- 
lent, are eaten as a salad or are roasted or boiled like 
potatoes. In Europe, they are frequently employed 
as a garnish or as an adjunct to dishes of meat and 
fish. They are also largely used for making candied 
angelica. (See below.) Formerly the stems were 
blanched like celery and were very popular as a veg- 
etable ; now they are little used in the United States. 
The tender leaves are often boiled and eaten as a 
substitute for spinach. Less in America than in 
Europe, the seeds, which, like other parts of the 
plant, are aromatic and bitterish, are used for flavor- 



CULINARY HERBS 59 

ing various beverages, cakes, and candies, especially 
^'comfits." Oil of angelica is obtained from the seeds 
by distillation with steam or boiling water, the vapor 
being condensed and the oil separated by gravity. It 
is also obtained in smaller quantity from the roots, 
200 pounds of which, it is said, yield only about one 
pound of the oil. Like the seeds, the oil is used for 
flavoring. 

Angelica candied. Green says: The fresh roots, 
the tender stems, the leaf stalks and the midribs of 
the leaves make a pleasing aromatic candy. When 
fresh gathered the plant is rather too bitter for use. 
This flavor may be reduced by boiling. The parts 
should first be sliced lengthwise, to remove the pith. 
The length of time will depend somewhat upon the 
thickness of the pieces. A few minutes is usually 
sufficient. After removal and draining the pieces 
are put in a syrup of granulated sugar and boiled 
till full candy density is reached. The kettle is then 
removed from the fire and the contents allowed to 
cool. When almost cold the pieces are to be taken 
out and allowed to dry. 

Anise (Pimpinella Anisum, Linn.), an annual herb 
of the natural order Umbelliferse. It is a native of 
southwestern Asia, northern Africa and south- 
eastern Europe, whence it has been introduced by 
man throughout the Mediterranean region, into 
Germany, and to some extent into other temperate 
regions of both hemispheres, but seems not to be 
known anywhere in the wild state or as an escape 
from gardens. To judge from its mention in the 
Scriptures (Matthew xxiii, 23). it was highly valued 



CULINARY HERBS 6l 

as a cultivated crop prior to our era, not only in 
Palestine, but elsewhere in the East. Many Greek 
and Roman authors, especially Dioscorides, Theo- 
phrastus, Pliny and Paladius, wrote more or less 
fully of its cultivation and uses. 

From their days to the present it seems to have 
enjoyed general popularity. In the ninth century, 
Charlemagne commanded that it be grown upon the 
imperial farms ; in the thirteenth, Albertus Magnus 
speaks highly of it ; and since then many agricultural 
writers have devoted attention to it. But though it 
has been cultivated for at least two thousand years 
and is now extensively grown in Malta, Spain, 
southern France, Russia, Germany and India, which 
mainly supply the market, it seems not to have 
developed any improved varieties. 

Description. — Its roots are white, spindle-shaped 
and rather fibrous; its stems about i8 inches tall, 
branchy, erect, slender, cylindrical ; its root leaves 
lobed somewhat like those of celery; its stem leaves 
more and more finely cut toward the upper part of 
the stem, near the top of which they resemble fennel 
leaves in their finely divided segments ; its flowers 
yellowish white, small, rather large, in loose umbels 
consisting of many umbellets ; its fruits ("seeds") 
greenish-gray, small, ovoid or oblong in outline, 
longitudinally furrowed and ridged on the convex 
side, very aromatic, sweetish and pleasantly piquant. 

Cultivation. — The seeds, which should be as fresh as 
possible, never more than two years old, should be 
sown in permanent quarters as soon as the weather 
becomes settled in early spring. They should be 



62 CULINARY HERBS 

planted Yz inch deep, about ^ inch asunder, in drills 
15 or i8 inches apart, and the plants thinned when 
about 2 inches tall to stand 6 inches asunder. An 
ounce of seed should plant about 150 feet of drill. 
The plants, which do not transplant readily, thrive 
best in well-drained, light, rich, rather dry, loamy 
soils well exposed to the sun. A light application 
of well-rotted manure, careful preparation of the 
ground, clean and frequent cultivation, are the only 
requisites in the management of this crop. 

In about four months from the sowing of the 
seed, and in about one month from the appearance 
of the flowers, the plants may be pulled, or prefer- 
ably cut, for drying. (See page 25.) The climate 
and the soils in the warmer parts of the northern 
states appear to be favorable to the commercial 
cultivation of anise, which it seems should prove a 
profitable crop under proper management. 

Uses. — The leaves are frequently employed as a 
garnish, for flavoring salads, and to a small extent 
as potherbs. Far more general, however, is the use 
of the seeds, which enter as a flavoring into various 
condiments, especially curry powders, many kinds 
of cake, pastry, and confettionery and into some 
kinds of cheese and bread. Anise oil is extensively 
employed for flavoring many beverages both alco- 
holic and non-spirituous and for disguising the un- 
pleasant flavors of various drugs. The seeds are 
also ground and compounded with other fragrant 
materials for making sachet powders, and the oil 
mixed with other fluids for liquid perfumes. Vari- 
ous similar anise combinations are largely used in 



CULINARY HERBS 63 

perfuming soaps, pomatums and other toilet arti- 
cles. The very volatile, nearly colorless oil is usu- 
ally obtained by distillation with water, about 50 
pounds of seed being required to produce one pound of 
oil. At Erfurt, Germany, where much of the com- 
mercial oil is made, the '1iay" and the seeds are both 
used for distilling. 

Balm (Melissa officinalis, Linn.), a perennial herb 
of the natural order Labiatae. The popular name is 
a contraction of balsam, the plant having formerly 
been considered a specific for a host of ailments. 
The generic name, Melissa, is the Greek for bee and 
is an allusion to the fondness of bees for the abun- 
dant nectar of the flowers. 

Balm is a native of southern Europe, where it 
was cultivated as a source of honey and as a sweet 
herb more than 2,000 years ago. It is frequently 
mentioned in Greek and Latin poetry and prose. 
Because of its use for anointing, Shakespeare re- 
ferred to it in the glorious lines (King Richard IL, 
act iii, scene 2) : 

"Not all the water in the rough, rude sea 
Can wash the balm from an anointed king." 

As a useful plant it received attention from the 
pen of Pliny. From its home it has been introduced 
by man as a garden plant into nearly all temperate 
climates throughout the world, and is often found 
as an escape from gardens where introduced— occa- 
sionally in this role in the earliest settled of the 
United States. Very few well-marked varieties 
have been produced. A variegated one, now grown 



64 CULINAKV lii:Kl?S 

for ornament as well as for cnlinar\' j^urposes, is 
l)rohably the same as that mentioned by Mawe in 
1778. 

Drscri/^tiou. — The roots are small and lil)rons; the 
stems, about 18 inehcs tall, very numerous, erect 
or spreadinj^, square; the leaves, green (except as 
mentioned), broadly ovate with toothed margins, 
opp(\site, rather succulent, highly scented; the flow- 
ers, few, whitish, or purj^lish, in small, loose, axillary, 
one-sided clusters borne from midsummer until late 
autumn ; the seeds very small — more than 50,000 to 
the ounce. 

Cultivation. — Balm is readily propagated by means 
of divisions, layers, cuttings, and by its seeds, which 
germinate fairly well even when four years old. 
Owing to its small size, the seed should be i)lanted 
in a seedpan or flat in a greenhouse or hotbed, 
where all conditions can be controlled. The soil 
should be made very flue and friable, the thinly 
scattered seeds merely pressed upon the surface 
with a block or a brick, and water applied preferably 
through the bottom of the seedpan, which may be 
set in a shallow dish of water until the surface of 
the soil begins to ai)pear moist. 

When an inch tall the seedlings should be pricked 
out 2 inches apart in other, deeper flats and when 
about 4 inches tall set in the garden about 1 foot 
asunder in rows about 18 inches apart. When once 
established they may be increased readily by the 
artificial means mentioned. (See page 34.) Ordi- 
nary clean cultivation throughout the season, the 
removal of dead parts, and care to prcxent the 



CUIJNAKV IIICKI'.S O5 

])lants from spreading unduly, are llie only rc(iui- 
sites of cultivation. Preferably the soil should 1)C 
poor, rather dry, little if at all enriched and in a 
sunny place. The foliage of seedling plants or plants 
newly spring-set should be ready for use by mid- 
summer; that of established plants from early 
spring until late autumn. For home use and market 
it should be cured as recommended on page 25, the 
leaves being very thinly si)read and plentifully sup- 
plied with air because of their succulence. The 
temi)erature should be rather low. 

[jscs. — The foliage is widely used for flavoring 
soups, stews, sauces, and dressings, and, when fresh, 
to a small extent with salads. Otto or oil of balm, 
obtained by aqueous distillation from the **hay," is 
a pale yellow, essential and volatile oil highly prized 
in perfumery for its lemon-like odor, and is exten- 
sively employed for flavoring various beverages. 

Basil (Ocymum basilicum, Linn.), an annual herb 
of the order Labiatae". The popular name, derived 
from the specific, signifies royal or kingly, probably 
because of the plant's use in feasts. In France it is 
known as herb royale, royal herb. The generic name 
is derived from Oca, a Greek word signifying odor. 

The plant is a native of tropical Asia, where for 
centuries, especially in India, it has been highly 
esteemed as a condiment. Probably the early Greek 
and Roman writers were well acqainted with it, but 
commentators are not decided. They suppose that 
the Okimon of ilippocrates, Dioscorides and Thco- 
phrastus is the same as Ocimum hortensc of Columella 
and \'arro. 



66 



CULINARY HERBS 



The plant's introduction into England was about 
1548, or perhaps a little earlier, but probably not 
prior to 1538, because Turner does not 
mention it in his **Libellus," published 
in that year. It seems to have grown 
rapidly in popularity, for in 1586 Lyte 
speaks of it as if well known. In 
America it has been cultivated 
somewhat for about a century 
partly because of its fragrant 
leaves which are employed 
in bouquets, but mainly for 
flavoring culinary concoc- 
tions. In Australia it is 
also more or less grown, 
and in countries where 
French commerce or other 
interests have penetrated 
it is well known. 

There are several related 
species which, in America 
less than in Europe or the 
East, have attracted atten- 
tion. The most important of 
tliese is dwarf or bush basil 
(O. minimum, Linn.), a 
small Chilian species als,^ 
reported from C o c h i n 
China. It was introduced 
into cultivation in Europe in 1573. On account 
of its compact form it is popular in gardens as an 
edging as well as a culinary hevh, for more than a 





Sweet Basil 



CULINARY HERBS 6/ 

century it has been grown in America. Sacred 
basil (O. sanctum), an oriental species, is cultivated 
near temples in India and its odoriferous oil ex- 
tracted for religious uses. Formerly the common 
species was considered sacred by the Brahmins 
who used it especially in honor of Vishnu and in 
funeral rites. An African species, O. fniticosum, is 
highly valued at the Cape of Good Hope for its 
perfume. 

Description. — From the small, fibrous roots the 
square stems stand erect about i foot tall. They 
are very branching and leafy. The leaves are green, 
except as noted below, ovate, pointed, opposite, 
somewhat toothed, rather succulent and highly fra- 
grant. The little white flowers which appear in mid- 
summer are racefned in leafy whorls, followed by 
small black fruits, popularly called seeds. These, like 
flaxseed, emit a mucilaginous substance when soaked 
in water. About 23,000 weigh an ounce, and 10 ounces 
fill a pint. Their vitality lasts about eight years. 

Like most of the other culinary herbs, basil has 
varied little in several centuries; there are no well- 
marked varieties of modern origin. Only three 
varieties of common basil are listed in America; 
Vilmorin lists only five French ones. Purple basil 
has lilac flowers, and when grown in the sun also. 
purple leaf stems and young branches. Lettuce- 
leaved basil has large, pale-green blistered and 
wrinkled leaves like those of lettuce. Its closely set 
clusters of flowers appear somewhat late. The 
leaves are larger and fewer than in the common 
variety. 



68 CULINARY HERBS 

The dwarf species is more compact, l)ranchitig 
and dainty than the common species. It has three 
varieties ; one with deep violet f oHage and stems and 
lilac white flowers, and two with green leaves, one 
very dense and compact. 

East Indian, or Tree Basil (O. gratissimum, Linn.), 
a well-known species in the Orient, seems to have a 
substitute in O. suave, also known by the same popu- 
lar name, and presumably the species cultivated in 
Europe and to some extent in America. It is an up- 
right, branching annual, which forms a pyramidal 
bush about 20 inches tall and often 15 inches in 
diameter. It favors very warm situations and tropi- 
cal countries. 

Cultivation. — Basil is propagated by seeds. Be- 
cause these are very small, they are best sown in 
flats under glass, covered lightly with finely sifted 
soil and moistened by standing in a shallow pan of 
water until the surface shows a wet spot. When 
about an inch tall, the seedlings must be pricked 
out 2 inches apart each way in larger-sized flats. 
When 3 inches tall they will be large enough for the 
garden, where they should be set i foot asunder 
in rows 15 to 18 inches apart. Often the seed is 
sown in the mellow border as early in the spring 
• as the ground can be worked. This method de- 
mands perhaps more attention than the former, 
because of weeds and because the rows cannot be 
easily seen. When transplanting, preference should 
be given to a sunny situation in a mellow, light, 
fertile, rather dry soil thoroughly well prepared 
and as free from weeds as possible. From the start 



CULINARY HERBS 69 

the ground must be kept loose, open and clean. When 
the plants meet in the rows cultivation may stop. 

First gatherings of foliage should begin by mid- 
summer when the plants start to blossom. Then 
they may be cut to within a few inches of the 
ground. The stumps should develop a second and 
even a third crop if care is exercised to keep the 
surface clean and open. A little dressing of quickly 
available fertilizer applied at this time is helpful. 
For seed some of the best plants should be left un- 
cut. The seed should ripen by mid-autumn. 

For winter use plants may be transplanted from 
the garden, or seedlings may be started in Septem- 
ber. The seeds should be sown two to the inch 
and the seedlings transplanted to pots or boxes. A 
handy pot is the 4-inch standard; this is large 
enough for one plant. In flats the plants should be 
5 or 6 inches apart each way. 

Uses. — Basil is one of the most popular herbs in 
the French cuisine. It is especially relished in mock 
turtle soup, which, when correctly made, derives its 
peculiar taste chiefly from the clovelike flavor of 
basil. In other highly seasoned dishes, such as 
stews and dressings, basil is also highly prized. It is 
less used in salads. A golden yellow essential oil, 
which reddens with age, is extracted from the leaves 
for uses in perfumery more than in the kitchen. 

The original and famous Fetter Lane sausages, 
formerly popular with Cockney epicures, owed their 
reputation mainly to basil. During the reigns of 
Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth farmers grew 



70 



CULINARY HERBS 




Borage, Famous for "Cool Tankard" 



CULINARY HERBS /I 

basil in pots and presented thcni with compliments 
to their landladies when these paid their visits. 

Borage (Borago ojjicinalis, Linn.), a coarse, hardy, 
annual her); of the natural order Boraginaceoe. Its 
popular name, derived from the generic, is sup- 
posed by some to have come from a corruption of 
cor, the heart, and ago, to affect, because of its former 
use as a cordial or heart-fortifying medicine. Cour- 
age is from the same source. The Standard Diction- 
ary, however, points to burrago, rough, and relates it 
indirectly by cross references to birriis, a thick, 
coarse woolen cloth worn by the poor during the thir- 
teenth century. The roughness of the full-grown 
leaves suggests flannel. Whichever derivation be 
correct, each is interesting as implying qualities, 
intrinsic or attributed, to the plant. 

The specific name indicates its obsolete use in 
medicine. It is one of the numerous plants which 
have shaken off the superstitions which a credulous 
populace wreathed around them. Almost none but the 
least enlightened people now attribute any medici- 
nal virtues whatever to it. 

The plant is said to come originally from Aleppo, 
but for centuries has been considered a native of 
Mediterranean Europe and Africa, whence it has 
become naturalized throughout the world by 
Europeans, who grew it probably more for medicinal 
than for culinary purposes. According to Ainslie, 
it was among the species listed by Peter Martyr as 
planted on Isabella Island by Columbus's compan- 
ions. The probability is that it was also brought 
to America by the colonists during Queen Eliza- 



"^2 CULINARY HERBS 

beth's time. It has been listed in American seeds- 
men's catalogues since 1806, but the demand has 
always been small and the extent to which it is cul- 
tivated very limited. 

Description, — Borage is of somewhat spreading 
habit, branchy, about 20 inches tall. Its oval or ob- 
long-lanceolate leaves and other green parts are 
covered with whitish, rather sharp, spreading hairs. 
The flowers, generally blue, sometimes pink, violet- 
red, or white, are loosely racemed at the extremities 
of the branches and main stems 

"The flaming rose glooms swarthy red ; 
The borage gleams more blue ; 
And low white flowers, witli starry head, 
Glimmer the rich dusk through." 

— George Mac Donald 

"■Souffs of the Summer NigM" Pari III 

The seeds are rather large, oblong, slightly 
curved, and a ridged and streaked grayish-brown. 
They retain their vitality for about eight years. 

Cultivation. — No plant is more easily grown. The 
seed need only be dropped and covered in any soil, 
from poor to rich, and the -plants will grow like 
weeds, and even become such if allowed to have 
sway. Borage seems, however, to prefer rather 
light, dry soils, waste places and steep banks. Upon 
such the flavor of the flowers is declared to be supe- 
rior to that produced upon richer ground, which de- 
velops a ranker growth of foliage. 

In the garden the seeds are sown about j/^ inch 
asunder and in rows 15 inches apart. Shortly after 



CULINARY HERBS 73 

the plants appear they are thinned to stand 3 inches 
apart, the thinnings being cooked like spinach, or, 
if small and delicate, they may be made into salads. 
Two other thinnings may be given for similar pur- 
poses as the plants grow, so that at the final thinning 
the specimens will stand about a foot asunder. Up to 
this time the ground is kept open and clean by cultiva- 
tion ; afterwards the borage will usually have possession. 

Uses. — More popular than the use of the foliage 
as a potherb and a salad is the employment of bor- 
age blossoms and the tender upper leaves, in com- 
pany or not with those of nasturtium, as a garnish 
or an ornament to salads, and still more as an addi- 
tion to various cooling drinks. The best known of 
these beverages is cool tankard, composed of wine, 
water, lemon juice, sugar and borage flowers. To 
this ''they seem to give additional coolness." They 
are often used similarly in lemonade, negus, claret- 
cup and fruit juice drinks. 

The plant has possibly a still more important 
though undeveloped use as a bee forage. It is so 
easily grown and flowers so freely that it should be 
popular with apiarists, especially those who own or 
live near waste land, dry and stony tracts which 
they could sow to it. For such places it has an ad- 
vantage over the many weeds which generally dispute 
possession in that it may be readily controlled by 
simple cultivation. It generally can hold its own 
against the plant populace of such places. 

Caraway (Carum carui, Linn.), a biennial or an 
annual herb of the natural order Umbelliferae. Its 



74 



CULINARY HERBS 



names, both popular and botanical, are supposed to 
be derived from Caria, in Asia Minor, where the 
plant is believed first to have attracted attention. 




Caraway for Comfits and Birthday Cakes 



From very early ages the caraway has been es- 
teemed by cooks and doctors, between which a 
friendly rivalry might seem to exist, each vying to 
give it prominence. At the present time the cooks 
seem to be in the ascendancy ; the seeds or their oil 
.are rarely used in modern medicine, except to dis- 
guise the flavor of repulsive drugs. 



CULINARY HERBS 75 

Since caraway seeds were found by O'Heer in 
the debris of the lake habitations of Switzerland, 
the fact seems well established that the plant is a 
native of Europe and the probability is increased 
that the Carcnm of Pliny is this same plant, as its 
use by Apicus would also indicate. It is mentioned 
in the twelfth-century writings as grown in Mo- 
rocco, and in the thirteenth by the Arabs. As a 
spice, its use in England seems to have begun at the 
close of the fourteenth century. Erom its Asiatic 
home it spread first with Phoenician commerce to 
western Europe, w^hence by later voyageurs it has 
been carried throughout the civilized world. So 
widely has it been distributed that the traveler may 
find it in the wilds of Iceland and Scandinavia, the 
slopes of sunny Spain, the steeps of the Himalayas, 
the veldt of southern Africa, the bush of Australia, 
the prairies and the pampas of America. 

Caraway is largely cultivated in Morocco, and is 
an important article of export from Russia, Prussia, 
and Holland. It has developed no clearly marked 
varieties ; some specimens, however, seem to be more 
distinctly annual than others, though attempts to 
isolate these and thus secure a quick-maturing va- 
riety seem not to have been made. 

Description. — The fleshy root, about J^ inch in 
diameter, is yellowish externally, whitish within, 
and has a slight carroty taste. Erom it a rosette of 
finely pinnated leaves is developed, and later the 
sparsely leaved, channeled, hollow, branching flower 
stem which rises from i8 to 30 inches and during 
early summer bears umbels of little white flowers 



76 CULINARY HERBS 

followed by oblong, pointed, somewhat curved, light 
brown aromatic fruits — the caraway ''seeds" of com- 
merce. These retain their germinating power for 
about three years, require about 10,000 seeds to 
make an ounce and fifteen ounces to the quart. 

Cultivation. — Frequently, if not usually, caraway 
is sown together with coriander in the same drills 
on heavy lands during May or early June. The 
coriander, being a quick-maturing plant, may be 
harvested before the caraway throws up a flowering 
stem. Thus two crops may be secured from the 
same land in the same time occupied by the caraway 
alone. Ordinary thinning to 6 or 8 inches between 
plants is done when the seedlings are established. 
Other requirements of the crop are all embraced in 
the practices of clean cultivation. 

Harvest occurs in July of the year following the 
seeding. The plants are cut about 12 inches above 
ground with sickles, spread on sheets to dry for a 
few days, and later beaten with a light flail. After 
threshing, the seed must be spread thinly and turned 
daily until the last vestige of moisture has evapo- 
rated. From 400 to 800 pounds is the usual range 
of yield. 

If seed be sown as soon as ripe, plants may be 
secured which mature earlier than the main crop. 
Thus six or eight weeks may be saved in the grow- 
ing season, and by continuing such selection a quick- 
maturing strain may be secured with little effort. 
This would also obviate the trouble of keeping seed 
from one year to the next, for the strain would be 
practically a winter annual 



CULINARY HERBS 'J'J 

Uses. — Occasionally the leaves and young shoots 
are eaten either cooked or as an ingredient in salads. 
The roots, too, have been esteemed in some 
countries, even more highly than the parsnip, v^hich, 
however, largely because of its size, has supplanted 
it for this purpose. But the seeds are the impor- 
tant part. They find popular use in bread, cheese, 
liquors, salads, sauces, soups, candy, and especially 
in seed cakes, cookies and comfits. The colorless or 
pale yellow^ essential oil distilled with water from 
the seeds, which contain between 5% and 75^% of 
it, has the characteristic flavor and odor of the fruit. 
It is extensively employed in the manufacture of 
toilet articles, such as perfumery, and especially 
soaps. 

Catnip, or cat mint (Ncpcta cataria, Linn.), a pe- 
rennial herb of the natural order Labiatae. The popu- 
lar name is in allusion to the attraction the plant has 
for cats. They not only eat it, but rub them- 
selves upon it purring with delight. The generic 
name is derived from the Etrurian city Neptic, in the 
neighborhood of which various species of the genus 
formerly became prominent. 

Like several of its relatives catnip is a well-known 
weed. It has become naturalized in America, and 
is most frequently observed in dry, waste places, 
especially in the East, though it is also often found 
in gardens and around dwellings throughout the 
United States and Canada. 

Description. — Its erect, square, branching stems, 
from 18 to 36 inches tall, bear notched oval or heart- 
shaped leaves, whitish below, and during late sum- 



78 



CULINARY HERBS 



mer terminal clusters of white flowers in small 
heads, far apart below, but crowded close above. 
The fruits are small, brown, ovoid, smooth and with 




Catnip, Pussy's Delight 



three clearly defined angles. An ounce contains, 
about 3,400 seeds. Viability lasts for five years. 
Cultivation. Catnip will grow with the most or* 



CULINARY HERBS 79 

dinary attention on any fairly dry soil. The seed 
need only be sown in autumn or spring where the 
plants are to remain or in a nursery bed for subse- 
quent transplanting-. If to be kept in a garden bed 
they should stand i8 to 24 inches apart each way. 
Nothing is needful except to keep down weeds in 
order to have them succeed for several years on the 
same spot. 

Uses. — The most important use of the plant is 
as a bee forage; for this purpose waste places are 
often planted to catnip. As a condiment the leaves 
were formerly in popular use, especially in the form 
of sauces; but milder flavors are now more highly 
esteemed. Still, the French use catnip to a con- 
siderable extent. Like many of its relatives, catnip 
was a popular medicinal remedy for many fleshly 
ills; now it is practically relegated to domestic 
medicine. Even in this it is a moribund remedy for 
infant flatulence, and is clung to only by unlettered 
nurses of a passing generation. 

Chervil (Scandix Cere folium, Linn.), a southern 
Europe annual, with stems about 18 inches tall and 
bearing few divided leaves composed of oval, much- 
cut leaflets. The small white flowers, borne in um- 
bels, are followed by long, pointed, black seeds with 
a conspicuous furrow from end to end. These 
seeds, which retain their germinability about three 
years, but are rather difficult to keep, may be sown 
where the plants are to stay, at any season, about 
eight weeks before a crop is desired; cultivation is 
like that of parsley. During summer and in 
warm climates, cool, shady situations should be 



80 CULINARY HERBS 

chosen, otherwise any situation and soil are suitable. 
The leaves, which are highly aromatic, are used, 
especially in France and England, for seasoning 
and for mixed salads. Chervil is rarely used alone, 
but is the chief ingredient in what the French call 
fifies herhes, a mixture which finds its way into a 
host of culinary concoctions. The best variety is 
the Curled, which, though it has the same flavor 
as the plain, is a prettier garnish. 

Chives (Allium Schccnoprastmt, Linn.), a bulbous, 
onion-like perennial belonging to the Liliaceae. 
Naturally the plants form thick tufts of abundant, 
hollow, grasslike leaves from their little oval bulbs 
and mat of fibrous roots. The short flower stems 
bear terminal clusters of generally sterile flowers. 
Hence the plants are propagated by planting the 
individual bulbs or by division of clumps in early 
spring. Frequently chives are planted in flower 
borders as an edging, for which purpose the compact 
growth and dainty flowers particularly recommend 
them. They should not be allowed to grow in the 
same place more than three years. 

Strictly speaking, chives do not belong with the 
herbs, but their leaves are so frequently used in- 
stead of onions for flavoring salads, stews and other 
dishes, and reference has been so often made to 
them in these pages, that a brief description has 
been included. For market the clumps are cut in 
squares and the whole plant sold. Treated in this 
way the greengrocers can keep them in good condi- 
tion by watering until sold. For use the leaves are 
cut with shears close to the ground. If allowed to 



CULINARY HERBS 8l 

Stand in the garden, cuttings may be made at in- 
tervals of two or three weeks all through the season. 

Clary (Salvia sclarea, Linn.), a perennial herb of 
the natural order Labiatse. The popular name is a 
corruption of the specific. In the discussion on 
sage will be found the significance of the generic 
name. Syria is said to be the original home of 
clary, but Italy is also mentioned. The presump- 
tion is in favor of the former country, as it is the 
older, and the plant was probably carried westward 
from it by soldiers or merchants. In England clary 
was known prior to 1538, when Turner published 
his garden lore, but in America, except in foreigners' 
gardens, it is rarely seen. It has been listed in 
seedsmen's catalogs since 1806. 

Description. — The large, very broad, oblong, ob- 
tuse, toothed, woolly haired, radical leaves are gray- 
ish green and somewhat rumpled like those of Savoy 
cabbage. From among them rise the 2-foot tall, 
square, branching, sparsely leaved stems, which dur- 
ing the second year bear small clusters of lilac or 
white showy flowers in long spikes. The smooth 
brown or marbled shining seeds retain their ger- 
minating power for three years. 

Cultivation. — The plants thrive in any well- 
drained soil. Seed may be sown during March in 
drills 18 inches apart where the plants are to remain 
or in a seedbed for transplanting 18 inches asunder 
in May. Clean cultivation is needed throughout the 
summer until the plants have full possession of the 
ground. In August the leaves may be gathered, 
and if this harvest be judiciously done the produc- 



82 



CULINARY HERBS 



tion of foliage should continue until midsummer 
of the second year, when the plants will probably 
insist upon flowering. After this it is best to rely 

upon new plants for sup- 
plies of leaves, the old 
plants being pulled. 

Uses. — In America, the 
leaves are little used in 
cookery, and even in 
Europe they seem to be 
less popular than form- 
erly, sage having taken 
their place. Wine is some- 
times made from the 
plant when in flower. As 
an ornamental, clary is 
worth a place in the hardy 
flower border. 

Coriander {Coriandnim 
sativum, Linn.), **a plant 
of little beauty and of 
easiest culture," is a hardy 
annual herb of the natural order Umbelliferse. The 
popular name is derived from the generic, which 
comes from the ancient Greek Koris, a kind of bug, 
in allusion to the disagreeable odor of the foliage 
and other green parts. The specific name refers to its 
cultivation in gardens. Hence the scientific name de- 
clares it to be the cultivated buggy-smelling plant. 

Coriander has been cultivated from such ancient 
times that its land of nativity is unknown, though 
it is said to be a native of southern Europe and of 




Coriander, for Old-Fashioned 
Candies 



CULINARY HERBS 83 

China. It has been used in cookery and of course, 
too, in medicine ; for, according to ancient reasoning, 
anything with so pronounced and unpleasant an 
odor must necessarily possess powerful curative or 
preventive attributes ! Its seeds have been found in 
Egyptian tombs of the 21st dynasty. Many cen- 
turies later Pliny wrote that the best quality of seed 
still came to Italy from Egypt. Prior to the Nor- 
man conquest in 1066, the plant was well known in 
Great Britain, probably having been taken there by 
the early Roman conquerors. Before 1670 it was 
introduced into Massachusetts. During this long 
period of cultivation there seems to be no record or 
even indication of varieties. In many temperate 
and tropical countries it has become a frequent weed 
in cultivated fields. 

Description. — From a cluster of slightly divided 
radical leaves branching stems rise to heights of 2 
to 2j/2 feet. Toward their summits they bear much 
divided leaves, with linear segments and umbels of 
small whitish flowers, followed by pairs of united, 
hemispherical, brownish-yellow, deeply furrowed 
"seeds," about the size of a sweet pea seed. These 
retain their vitality for five or six years. The 
seeds do not have the unpleasant odor of the plant, 
but have a rather agreeable smell and a moderately 
warm, pungent taste. 

Ciiltwation. — Coriander, a plant of the easiest cul- 
ture, does best in a rather light, warm, friable soil. 
In Europe it is often sown with caraway, which, 
being a biennial and producing only a rosette of 
leaves at the surface of the ground the first year, is 



84 CULINARY HERBS 

not injured when the annual coriander is cut. The 
seed is often sown in the autumn, though spring 
sowing is perhaps in more favor. The rows are 
made about 15 inches apart, the seeds dropped i 
inch asunder and Yz inch deep and the plantlets 
thinned to 6 or 8 inches. Since the plants run to 
seed quickly, they must be watched and cut early 
to prevent loss and consequent seeding of the 
ground. After curing in the shade the seed is 
threshed as already described (see page 28). On 
favorable land the yield may reach or even exceed 
1,500 pounds to the acre. 

Uses. — Some writers say the young leaves of the 
plant are used in salads and for seasoning soups, 
dressings, etc. If this is so, I can only remark that 
there is no accounting for tastes. I am inclined 
to think, however, that these writers are drawing 
upon their imagination or have been "stuflfed" by 
people who take pleasure in supplying misinforma- 
tion. The odor is such as to suggest the flavor of 
*'buggy" raspberries we sometimes gather in the 
fence rows. Any person who relishes buggy berries 
may perhaps enjoy coriander salad or soup. 

Only the seed is of commercial importance. It is 
used largely in making comfits and other kinds 
of confectionery, for adding to bread, and, especiall}^ 
in the East, as an ingredient in curry powder and 
other condiments. In medicine its chief use now 
is to disguise the taste of disagreeable drugs. Dis- 
tillers use it for flavoring various kinds of liquors. 

Cumin (Ciiminum Cymimim, Linn.), a low-grow- 



CULINARY HERBS 85 

ing annual herb of the Nile valley, but cultivated in 
the Mediterranean region, Arabia, Egypt, Morocco, 
India, China, and Palestine from very early times, 
(See Isaiah xviii, 25-27 and Matthew xxiii, 23.) 
Pliny is said to have considered it the best appetizer 
of all condiments. During the middle ages it was 
in very common use. All the old herbals of the 
sixteenth and the seventeenth centuries figure and 
describe and extol it. In Europe it is extensively 
cultivated in Malta and Sicily, and will mature seed 
as far north as Norway; in America, today, the 
seed is cataloged by some seedsmen, but very little 
is grown. 

Description. — The plant is very diminutive, rarely 
exceeding a height of 6 inches. Its stems, which 
branch freely from the base, bear mere linear leaves 
and small lilac flowers, in little umbels of 10 to 20 
blossoms each. The six-ribbed, elongated "seeds" 
in appearance resemble caraway seeds, but are 
straighter, lighter and larger, and in formation are 
like the double seeds of coriander, convex on one 
side and concave on the other. They bear long 
hairs, which fold up when the seed is dry. 

After the seed has been kept for two years it be- 
gins to lose its germinating power, but will sprout 
reasonably well when three years old. It is char- 
acterized by a peculiar, strong aromatic odor, and a 
hot taste. 

Culture. — As soon as the ground has become 
warm the seed is sown in drills about 15 inches 
apart where the plants are to remain. Except for 
keeping down the weeds no further attention is 



86 



CULINARY HERBS 







Dill, of Pickle Fame 



CULINARY HERBS 8/ 

necessary. The plants mature in about two months, 
when the stems are cut and dried in the shade. (See 
page 28.) The seeds are used in India as an in- 
gredient in curry powder, in France for flavoring 
pickles, pastry and soups. 

Dill {Anethum gravcolens, Linn.), a hardy annual, 
native of the Mediterranean and the Black Sea re- 
gions, smaller than common fennel, which it some- 
what resembles both in appearance and in the flavor 
of the green parts, which are, however, less agree- 
able. 

In ancient times it was grown in Palestine. The 
word translated, "anise" in Matthew xxiii, 23, is said 
to have been 'Mill" in the original Greek. It was 
well known in Pliny's time, and is often discussed 
by writers in the middle ages. According to Ameri- 
can writings, it has been grown in this country for 
more than 100 years and has become spontaneous 
in many places. 

Description. — Ordinarily the plants grow 2 to 2j4 
feet tall. The glaucous, smooth, hollow, branching 
stems bear very threadlike leaves and in midsummer 
compound umbels with numerous yellow flowers, 
whose small petals are rolled inward. Very flat, 
pungent, bitter seeds are freely produced, and un- 
less gathered, early are sure to stock the garden 
with volunteer seedlings for the following year. 
Under fair storage conditions, the seeds continue 
viable for three years. They are rather light ; a 
quart of them weighs about ii ounces, and an ounce 
is said to contain over 25,000 seeds. 



88 CULINARY HERBS 

Cultivation. — Where dill has not already been 
grown seed may be sown in early spring, preferably 
in a warm sandy soil, where the plants are to re- 
main. Any well-drained soil will do. The drills 
should be i foot apart, the seeds scattered thinly 
and covered very shallow; a bed 12 feet square 
should supply abundance of seed foi any ordinary 
family. To sow this area % to J/2 ounce of seed is 
ample. For field use the rows may be 15 inches 
apart and the seed sown more thinly. It should 
not be covered much more than ^ inch. Some 
growers favor fall sowing, because they claim the 
seed is more likely to germinate than in the spring, and 
also to produce better plants than spring-sown seed. 

At all times the plants must be kept free from 
weeds and the soil loose and open. When three or 
four weeks old the seedlings are thinned to 9 
inches, or even a foot apart. As soon as the seed is 
ripe, shortly after midsummer, it must be gathered 
with the least possible shaking and handling, so as 
to prevent loss. It is well to place the stems as 
cut directly in a tight-bottomed cart or a wheel- 
barrow, with a canvas receptacle for the purpose, 
and to haul direct to the shade where drying is to 
occur. A good place for this is a barn, upon the 
floor of which a large canvas sheet is spread, and 
where a free circulation of air can be secured. 
(See page 28.) 

Uses. — The French use dill for flavoring preserves, 
cakes and pastry. For these purposes it is of too 
strong and pronounced a character to be relished by 
American palates. The seeds perhaps more often 



CULINARY HERBS 89 

appear in soups, sauces and stews, but even here 
they are relished more by our European residents 
than by native Americans. Probably they are most 
used in pickles, especially in preserving cucumbers 
according to German recipes. Thousands of bar- 
rels of such pickles are sold annually, more especially in 
the larger cities and to the poorer people ; but as 
this pickle is procurable at all delicatessen stores, it 
has gained great popularity among even the well- 
to-do. An oil is distilled from the seeds and used 
in perfuming soap. The young leaves are said to 
be used in pickles, soups and sauces, and even in 
salads. For the last purpose they are rather strong 
to suit most people, and for the others the seeds are 
far more popular. 

Dill vinegar is a popular household condiment. 
It is made by soaking the seed in good vinegar for 
a few days before using. The quantity of ingredi- 
ents to use is immaterial. Only a certain amount 
of the flavor can be dissolved by the vinegar, and as 
few samples of vinegar are alike, the quantities both 
to mix and of the decoction to use must be left to 
the housewife. This may be said, however, that 
after one lot of seed has been treated the vinegar 
may be poured ofif and the seeds steeped a second 
time to get a weaker infusion. The two infusions 
may then be mixed and kept in a dark cupboard 
for use as needed. 

Fennel (Fccniculiim officinale, AIL), a biennial or 
perennial herb, generally considered a native of 
southern Europe, though common on all Mediter- 
ranean shores. The old Latin name Fccuiculiim is 



90 



CULINARY HERBS 



derived from foemim or hay. It has spread with 
civilization, especially w^here Italians have colonized, 
and may be found growing wild in many parts of 
the world, upon 



^W^i 



^^##'' 






dry soils near the 
sea coast and upon 
river banks. 

It seems to be 
partial to lime- 
stone soils, such 
as the chalky 
lands of England 
and the shelly for- 
mation of Ber- 
muda. In this latter com- 
munity I have seen it thriv- 
ing upon cliffs where there 
seemed to be only a pinch 
of soil, and where the rock 
was so dry and porous that 
it would crumble to coarse 
dust when crushed in the 
hand. The plant was culti- 
vated by the ancient 
Romans for its aromatic 

fruits and succulent, edible shoots. Whether culti- 
vated in northern Europe at that time is not certain, 
but it is frequently mentioned in Anglo-Saxon cook- 
ery prior to the Norman conquest. Charlemagne 
ordered its culture upon the imperial farms. At 
present it is most popular in Italy, and France. In 
America it is in most demand among French and 




Sweet Fennel 



CULINARY ilERl'.S 9I 

Italians. Like many other plants, fennel has had 
a highly interesting career from a medical point of 
view. But it no longer plays even a ''small part" 
in the drama. Hints as to its history may be found 
on page 54. 

Description. — Common garden or long, sweet fen- 
nel is distinguished from its wild or better relative 
(F. vulgar c) by having much stouter, taller (5 to 
6 feet) tubular and larger stems, less divided, more 
glaucous leaves. But a still more striking differ- 
ence is seen in the leaf stalks which form a curved 
sheath around the stem even as far up as the base 
of the leaf above. Then, too, the green flowers are 
borne on more sturdy pedicels in the broader um- 
bels, lastly the seeds are double the size of the wild 
fennel seeds, ^ or ^ inch long. They are convex 
on one side, flat on the other, and are marked by 
five yellowish ribs. Though a French writer says 
the seed degenerates ''promptly," and recommends 
the use of fresh seed annually, it will not be wise to 
throw away any where it is not wanted to ger- 
minate, unless it is over four years old, as seed as 
old even as that is said to be satisfactory for 
planting. 

Cultivation, — In usual garden practice fennel is 
propagated by seeds, and is grown as an annual 
instead of as a biennial or a perennial. The plants 
will flourish in almost any well-drained soil, but 
seem to prefer light loams of a limy nature. It is 
not particular as to exposure. The seed may be 
sown in nursery beds or where the plants are to 
remain. In the beds, the drills may be 6 inches 



92 CULINARY HERBS 

apart, and not more than 1-3 inch deep, or the 
seed may be scattered broadcast. An ounce will 
be enough for a bed 10 feet square. When the 
plants are about 3 inches tall they should be trans- 
planted 15 or 18 inches asunder in rows 2 to 2^ 
feet apart. Some growers sow in late summer and 
in autumn so as to have early crops the following 
season ; they also make several successional sowings 
at intervals of one or two weeks, in order to supply 
the demands of their customers for fresh fennel 
stalks from midsummer to December or even later. 
The plants will grow more or less in very cold, that 
is, not actually freezing weather. 

If sown in place, the rows should be the suggested 
2 to 23/2 feet apart, and the plants thinned several 
times until the required distance is reached. Thin- 
nings may be used for culinary purposes. For family 
use half an ounce of seed, if fairly fresh, will pro- 
duce an ample supply of plants, and for several 
years, either from the established roots or by re- 
seeding. Unless seed is needed for household or 
sowing purposes, the flower stems should be cut as 
soon as they appear. 

Uses. — Fennel is considered indispensable in 
French and Italian cookery. The young plants and 
the tender leaves are often used for garnishes and 
to add flavor to salads. They are also minced and 
added to sauces usually served with puddings. The 
tender stems and the leaves are employed in soups 
and fish sauces, though more frequently they are 
eaten raw as a salad with or without dressing. The 
famous "Carosella" of Naples consists of the stems 



CULINARY HERBS 93 

cut when the plant is about to bloom. These stems 
are considered a great delicacy served raw with the 
leaf stalks still around them. Oil, vinegar and pep- 
per are eaten with them. By sowing at mtervals 
of a week or lO days Italian gardeners manage to 
have a supply almost all the year. 

The seeds are used in cookery, confectionery and 
for flavoring liquors. Oil of fennel, a pale yellow 
liquid, with a sweetish aromatic odor and flavor, is 
distilled with water. It is used in perfumery and 
for scenting soaps. A pound of oil is the usual 
yield of 500 pounds of the plant. 

Finocchio, or Florence fennel (F, duke, D.C.), 
deserves special mention here. It appears to be a 
native of Italy, a distinct dwarf annual, very thick- 
set herb. The stem joints are so close together and 
their bases so swelled as to suggest malformation. 
Even when full grown and producing seed, the plant 
rarely exceeds 2 feet. The large, finely cut, light 
green leaves are borne on very broad, pale green 
or almost whitish stalks, which overlap at their 
bases, somewhat like celery, but much more swelled 
at edible maturity, to form a sort of head or irregular 
ball, the "apple," as it is called, sometimes as large 
as a man's fist. The seeds are a peculiar oblong 
much broader than long, convex on one side and 
flat on the other, with five conspicuous ribs. 

Cultivation is much the same as for common fen- 
nel though owing to the dwarf nature of the plant 
the rows and the plants may be closer together. 
The seedlings should be 5 or 6 inches asunder. They 
are very thirsty things and require water frequently. 



94 CULINARY HERBS 

When the ''apple" attains the size of an egg, earth 
may be drawn up slightly to the base, which may be 
about half covered; cutting may begin about lo 
days later. Florence fennel is generally boiled and 
served with either a butter or a cream dressing. It 
suggests celery in flavor, but is sweeter and is even 
more pleasingly fragrant. In Italy it is one of the 
commonest and most popular of vegetables. In 
other European countries it is also well known, but 
in America its cultivation is almost confined to Ital- 
ian gardens or to such as supply Italian demands 
in the large cities. In New York it is commonly 
sold by greengrocers and pushcart men in the Italian 
sections. 

Fennel Flower (Nigella sativa, Linn.), an Asiatic 
annual, belonging to the Ranunculaceae, grown to a 
limited extent in southern Europe, but scarcely 
known in America. Among the Romans it was es- 
teemed in cookery, hence one of its common names, 
Roman coriander. The plant has a rather stifif, 
erect, branching stem, bears deeply cut grayish-green 
leaves and terminal grayish-blue flowers, which pre- 
cede odd, toothed, seed vessels filled with small, 
triangular, black, highly aromatic seeds. For gar- 
den use the seed is sown in spring after the ground 
gets warm. The drills may be 15 to 18 inches apart 
and the plants thinned to 10 or 12 inches asunder. 
No special attention is necessary until midsummer, 
when the seed ripens. These are easily threshed 
and cleaned. After drying they should be stored 
in sacks in a cool, dry place. They are used just 
as they are or like dill in cookery. 



CULINARY HERBS 95 

Hoarhound, or horehound (Marrubium vulgare, 
Linn.), a perennial plant of the natural order La- 
biatse, formerly widely esteemed in cookery and 
medicine, but now almost out of use except for mak- 
ing candy which some people still eat in the belief 
that it relieves tickling in the throat due to cough- 
ing. In many parts of the world hoarhound has 
become naturalized on dry, poor soils, and is even 
a troublesome weed in such situations. Bees are 
very partial to hoarhound nectar, and make a pleas- 
ing honey from the flowers where these are abun- 
dant. This honey has been almost as popular as 
hoarhound candy, and formerly was obtainable at 
druggists. Except in isolated sections, it has ceased 
to be sold in the drug stores. The generic name 
Marrubium is derived from a Hebrew word meaning 
bitter. The flavor is so strong and lasting that the 
modern palate wonders how the ancient mouth 
could stand such a thing in cookery. 

The numerous branching, erect stems and the al- 
most square, toothed, grayish-green leaves are 
covered with a down from which the common name 
hoarhound is derived. The white flowers, borne 
in axillary clusters forming whorls and spikes, are 
followed by small, brown, oblong seeds pointed at 
one end. These may be sown up to the third year 
after ripening with the expectation that they will 
grow. Spring is the usual time for sowing. A dry, 
poor soil, preferably exposed to the south, should be 
chosen. The plants may stand 12 to 15 inches 
apart. After once becoming established no further 
attention need be given except to prevent seed form- 



96 CULINARY HERBS 

ing, thus giving the plant less chance to become a 
nuisance. Often the clumps may be divided or lay- 
ers or cuttings may be used for propagation. No 
protection need be given, as the plants are hardy. 

An old author gives the following recipe for hoar- 
hound candy: To one pint of a strong decoction 
of the leaves and stems or the roots add 8 or 10 
pounds of sugar. Boil to candy height and pour 
into molds or smiall paper cases previously w^ell 
dusted w^ith finely pow^dered lump sugar, or pour on 
dusted marble slabs and cut in squares. 

Hyssop (Hyssopus officinalis, Linn.), a perennial 
evergreen undershrub of the Labiatae, native of the 
Mediterranean region. Though well known in ancient 
times, this plant is probably not the one known as hys- 
sop in Biblical writings. According to the Stand- 
ard Dictionary the Biblical *'hyssop" is '*an uniden- 
tified plant . . . thought by some to have been 
a species of marjoram (Origanum mam); by others, 
the caper-bush (Capparis spinosa) ; and by the author 
of the 'History of Bible Plants,' to have been the name 
of any common article in the form of a brush or a 
broom." In ancient and medieval times hyssop was 
grown for its fancied medicinal qualities, for ornament 
and for cookery. Except for ornament, it is now very 
little cultivated. Occasionally it is found growing 
wild in other than Mediterranean countries. 

Description. — The smooth, simple stems, which grow 
about 2 feet tall, bear lanceolate-linear, entire leaves and 
small clusters of usually blue, though sometimes pink 
or white flowers, crowded in terminal spikes. The 
small, brown, glistening three-angled seeds, which have 



CULINARY HERI5S 97 

a little white hilum near their apices, retain their 
viability three years. Leaves, stems and flowers 
possess a highly aromatic odor and a hot, bitter flavor. 

Cultivation. — Hyssop succeeds best in rather warm, 
limy soil. It may be readily propagated by division, 
cuttings, and seed. In cold climates the last way is the 
most common. Seed is sown in early spring, either in 
a cold frame or in the open ground, and the seedlings 
transplanted in early summer. Even where the plants 
survive the winters, it is advisable to renew them every 
three or four years. When grown in too rich soil, 
the growth will be very lush and will lack aroma. 
Plants should stand not closer than 6 inches in the 
rows, which should be at least i8 inches apart. They 
do best in partial shade. 

Uses. — Hyssop has almost entirely disappeared from 
culinary practice because it is too strong-flavored. 
Its tender leaves and shoots are, however, occa- 
sionally added to salads, to supply a bitter taste. 
The colorless oil distilled from the leaves has a 
peculiar odor and an acrid, camphorescent taste. 
Upon contact with the air it turns yellowr and 
changes to a resin. From 400 to 500 pounds of the 
fresh plant yield a pound of oil. The oil is used to 
some extent in the preparation of toilet articles. 

Lavender, (Lavcndida vera, D. C. ; L. Angustifolia, 
Moench. ; L. spica, Linn.), a half-hardy perennial un- 
dershrub, native of dry, calcareous uplands in south- 
ern Europe. Its name is derived from the Latin 
word Lavo, to wash, a distillation of the flowers being 
anciently used in perfuming water for washing the 
body. The plant forms a compact clump 2 to 2^ feet 



98 CULINARY HERBS 

tall, has numerous erect stems, bearing small, linear, 
gray leaves, above w^hich the slender, square, flower 
stems arise. The small violet-blue flowers are 
arranged in a short, terminal spike, and are fol- 
lowed by little brown, oblong, shiny seeds, with 
white dots at the ends, attached to the plant. The 
seeds remain viable for about five years. 

Cultivation. — Lavender succeeds best on light, limy 
or chalky soil, but will do well in any good loam. In 
gardens it is usually employed as an edging for 
flower beds, and is most frequently propagated by 
division or cuttings, seed being used only to get a 
start where plants cannot be secured in the other 
ways mentioned. In cold climates the plants must 
either be protected or removed to a greenhouse, or 
at least a cold frame, which can be covered in severe 
weather. The seed is sown indoors during March, 
and if crowding, pricked out 2 inches asunder. 
When the ground has become warm, the plants are 
set in the open 15 to 20 inches asunder. It delights 
in a sunny situation, and is most fragrant on poor 
soil. Rich soil makes the plant larger but the flowers 
poorer in perfume. 

Uses. — The plant is sometimes grown for a condi- 
ment and an addition to salads, dressings, etc., but 
its chief use is in perfumery, the flowers being 
gathered and either dried for use in sachet bags or 
distilled for their content of oil. In former years 
no girl was supposed to be ready for marriage until, 
with her own hands, she had made her own linen 
and stored it with lavender. And in some sections 



CULINARY HERBS 99 

the lavender is still used, though the linen is now- 
adays purchased. 

In southern France and in England considerable 
areas are devoted to lavender for the perfumery 
business. The flower stems are cut in August, cov- 
ered at once with bast matting to protect them 
from the sun and taken to the stills to obtain the 
thin, pale yellow, fragrant oil. Four-year-old plants 
yield the greatest amount of oil, but the product 
is greater from a two-year plantation than from an 
older one, the plants then being most vigorous. Two 
grades of oil are made, the best being used for lav- 
ender water, the poorer for soap making. In a good 
season about one pound of oil is obtained from 150 
to 200 pounds of the cut plants. 

Lovage (Levisticum officinale, Koch.), a perennial, 
native of the Mediterranean region. The large, 
dark-green, shining radical leaves are usually 
divided into two or three segments. Toward the 
top the thick, hollow, erect stems divide to form 
opposite, whorled branches which bear umbels of 
yellow flowers, followed by highly aromatic, hol-^ 
lowed fruits ("seeds") with three prominent ribs. 
Propagation is by division or by seeds not over 
three years old. In late summer when the seed 
ripens, it is sown and the seedlings transplanted 
either in the fall or as early in spring as possible 
to their permanent places. Rich, moist soil is 
needed. Root division is performed in early spring. 
With cultivation and alternation like that given to 
Angelica, the plants should last for several years. 



lOO CULINARY HERBS 

Formerly lovage was used for a great variety of 
purposes, but nowadays it is restricted almost 
wholly to confectionery, the young stems being 
handled like those of Angelica. So far as I have 
been able to learn, the leaf stalks and stem bases, 
which were formerly blanched like celery, are no 
longer used in this way. 

Marigold (Calendula officinalis, Linn.), an annual 
herb of the natural order Compositae, native of 
southern Europe. Its Latin name, suggestive of its 
flowering habit, signifies blooming through the 
months. Our word calendar is of the same deriva- 
tion. Its short stems, about 12 inches tall, branch 
near their bases, bear lanceolate, oblong, unpleas- 
antly scented leaves, and showy yellow or orange 
flowers in heads. The curved, gray seeds, which are 
rough, wrinkled and somewhat spiny, retain their 
germinating power for about three years. 

Cnltiz'ation. — For the garden the seed is usually 
started in a hotbed during March or April and the 
plants pricked out in flats 2 inches apart and hard- 
ened off in the usual way. When the weather be- 
comes settled they are set a foot or 15 inches apart 
in rather poor soil, preferably light and sandy, with 
sunny exposure. Often the seed is sown in the open 
and the seedlings thinned and transplanted when 
about 2 inches tall. 

Uses. — The flower heads are sometimes dried and 
used in broths, soups, stews, etc., but the flavor is 
too pronounced for American palates. One gar- 
dener remarked that "only a few plants are needed 
by a family." I think that two would produce about 



CULINARY HERBS lOI 

twice as much as I would care to use in a century. 
For culinary use the flowers are gathered when in 
full bloom, dried in the shade and stored in glass 
jars. The fresh flowers have often been used to 
color butter. 

The marigold, "homely forgotten flower, under 
the rose's bower, plain as a weed," to quote Bay- 
ard Taylor, is a general favorite flowering plant, 
especially in country gardens. It is so easily grown, 
is so free a bloomer, and under ordinary manage- 
ment continues from early summer until even hard 
frosts arrive, that busy farmers' wives and daugh- 
ters love it. Then, too, it is one of the old-fashioned 
flowers, about which so many happy thoughts cling. 
What more beautiful and suggestive lines could one 
wish than these : 

"The marigold, whose courtier's face 
Echoes the sun, and doth unlace 
Her at his rise, at his full stop 
Packs up and shuts her gaudy shop." 
—John Cleveland 

" On Phillis Walking before Sunrise" 

"Youth ! Youth ! how buoyant are thy hopes ! They turn 
Like marigolds toward the sunny side," 

—Jean higelow 

" The Four Bridges " 

Marjoram. — Two species of marjoram now grown 
for culinary purposes (several others were formerly 
popular) are members of the Labiatas or mint fam- 
ily — pot or perennial marjoram (Origamim vidgarc, 
Linn.) and sweet or annual (O. Marjorana). Really, 
both plants are perennials, but sweet marjoram. 



I02 



CULINARY HERBS 



because of its liability to be killed by frost, is so 
commonly cultivated in cold countries as an annual 
that it has acquired this name, which readily dis- 
tinguishes it from its hardy relative. Perennial 
marjoram is a native of Europe, but has become nat- 
uralized in many cool and 




even cold temperate clim- 
ates. It is often found 
wild in the Atlantic states 
in the borders of woods. 

The general name origa- 
num, meaning delight of 
the mountain, is derived 
from two Greek words, 
oros, mountain ; and ganos, 
joy, some of the species 
being found commonly 
upon mountain sides. Un- 
der cultivation it has 
developed a few varieties 
the most popular of which 
are a variegated form used 
for ornamental purposes, 
and a dwarf variety noted 
for its ability to come true 
to seed. Both varieties 
are used in cookery. The perennial species seems to 
have had the longer association with civilization; at 
least it is the one identified in the writings of Pliny, 
Albertus Magnus and the English herbalists of the 
middle ages. Annual marjoram is thought to be the 
species considered sacred in India to Vishnu and Siva. 



Sweet Marjoram 



CULINARY HERBS IO3 

Description. — Perennial marjoram rises even 2 feet 
high, in branchy clumps, bears numerous short- 
stemmed, ovate leaves about i inch long, and termi- 
nal clusters or short spikes of little, pale lilac or 
pink blossoms and purple bracts. The oval, brown 
seeds are very minute. They are, however, heavy 
for their size, since a quart of them weighs about 24 
ounces. I am told that an ounce contains more than 
340,000, and would rather believe than be forced to 
prove it. 

Annual marjoram is much more erect, more bush- 
like, has smaller, narrower leaves, whiter flowers, 
green bracts and larger, but lighter seeds — only 
113,000 to the ounce and only 20 ounces to the 
quart ! 

Cultivation. — Perennial marjoram when once estab- 
lished may be readily propagated by cuttings, division 
or layers, but it is so easy to grow from seed that this 
method is usually employed. There is little danger 
of its becoming a weed, because the seedlings are 
easily destroyed while small. The seed should be 
sown during March or April in flats or beds that 
can be protected from rain. It is merely dusted on 
the surface, the soil being pressed down slightly 
with a board or a brick. Until the seedlings appear, 
the bed should be shaded to check evaporation. 
AVhen the plants are 2 or 3 inches tall they may be 
transplanted to the places where they are to remain, 
as they are not so easy to transplant as lettuce and 
geraniums. The work should be done while the 
plants are very small, and larger numbers should be 
set than will ultimately be allowed to grow. I have 



I04 CULINARY HERBS 

had no difficulty in transplanting, but some people 
who have had prefer to sow the seed where the 
plants are to stand. 

If to be used for edging, the dwarf plants may be 
set 3 or 6 inches apart; the larger kinds require a 
foot or 15 inches in which to develop. In field cul- 
tivation the greater distance is the more desirable. 
From the very start the plants must be kept free 
from weeds and the soil loose and open. Hand- 
work is essential until they become established. 
The plants will last for years. 

Annual marjoram is managed in the same kind of 
way as to seeding and cultivation ; but as the plant 
is tender, fresh sowings must be made annually. 
To be sure, plants may be taken up in the fall and 
used for making cuttings or layers towards spring 
for the following season's beds. As annual mar- 
joram is somewhat smaller than the perennial kind 
(except the dwarf perennial variety), the distances 
may be somewhat less, say 9 or 10 inches. Annual 
marjoram is a quick-growing plant — so quick, in 
fact, that leaves may be secured within six or eight 
weeks of sowing. The flowers appear in 10 to 12 
weeks, and the seed ripens soon after. 

When it is desired to cure the leaves for winter 
use, the stems should be cut just as the flowers 
begin to appear, and dried in the usual manner. 
(See page 25.) If seed is wanted, they should be 
cut soon after the flowers fall or even before all 
have fallen — when the scales around the seeds be- 
gin to look as if drying. The cut stems must be 
dried on sheets of very fine weave, to prevent loss 



CULINARY HERBS IO5 

of seed. When the leaves are thoroughly dry they 
must be thrashed and rubbed before being placed in 
sieves, first of coarse, and then of finer mesh. 

Uses. — The leaves and the flower and tender stem 
tips of both species have a pleasant odor, and are used 
for seasoning soups, stews, dressings and sauces. They 
are specially favored in France and Italy, but are pop- 
ular also in England and America. In France mar- 
joram is cultivated commercially for its oil, a thin, 
light yellow or greenish liquid, with the concen- 
trated odor of marjoram and peppermint. It has a 
warm, and slightly bitter taste. About 200 pounds 
of stems and leaves are needed to get a pound of 
oil. Some distillation is done in England, where 
70 pounds of the plant yield about one ounce of oil. 
This oil is used for perfuming toilet articles, espe- 
cially soap, but is perhaps less popular than the 
essential oil of thyme. 

Mint (Mentha viridis, Linn.) — Spearmint, a mem- 
ber of the Labiatae, is a very hardy perennial, native to 
Mediterranean countries. Its generic name is derived 
from the mythological origin ascribed to it. Poets de- 
clared that Proserpine became jealous of Cocytus's 
daughter, IMinthe, whom she transformed into the 
plant. The specific name means green, hence the 
common name, green mint, often applied to it. The 
old Jewish law did not require that tithes of ''mint, 
anise and cumin" should be paid in to the treasury, 
but the Pharisees paid them while omitting the 
w^eightier matters, justice, mercy, and faith (Mat- 
thew xxiii, 23). From this and many other refer- 
ences in old writings it is evident that mint has been 



io6 



CULINARY HERBS 



highly esteemed for many centuries. In the seven- 
teenth century John Gerarde wrote concerning it 
that "the smelle rejoyceth the heart of man." In- 
deed, it has been so universally esteemed that it is 
found wild in nearly all countries to which civiliza- 




Mint, Best Friend of Roast Lamb 



tion has extended. It has been known as an escape 
from American gardens for about 200 years, and is 
sometimes troublesome as a weed in moist soil. 

Description. — From creeping* rootstocks erect square 
stems rise to a height of about 2 feet, and near their 



CULINARY HERBS 10/ 

summits bear spreading branches with very short- 
stemmed, acute-pointed, lance-shaped, wrinkled leaves 
with toothed edges, and cylindrical spikes of small pink 
or lilac flowers, followed by very few, roundish, 
minute, brown seeds. 

Cultivation.— ThQ plant may be easily propagated 
by means of cuttings, offsets and division in spring. 
They may be expected to yield somewhat of a crop 
the first season, but much more the second. In field 
culture they will continue profitable for several 
years, provided that each autumn the tops are cut 
off near the ground and a liberal dressing of 
manure, compost or even rich soil is given. In 
ordinary garden practice it is well also to observe 
this plan, but usually mint is there allov^ed to shift 
for itself, along with the horseradish and the Jeru- 
salem artichoke when such plants are grown. So 
treated, it is likely to give trouble, because, having 
utilized the food in one spot, its stems seek to 
migrate to better quarters. Hence, if the idea is to 
neglect the plants, a corner of the garden should be 
chosen where there is no danger of their becoming a 
nuisance. It is best to avoid all such trouble by 
renewing or changing the beds every 5 or 6 years. 
Mint will grow anywhere but does best in a moist, 
rich loam and partial shade. If in a sheltered spot, 
it will start earlier in the spring than if exposed. 
Upon an extensive scale the drills should be 2 inches 
deep and I2 to 15 inches apart. Bits of the root- 
stocks are dropped at intervals of 6 to 12 inches in 
the rows and covered with a wheel hoe. For a new 



I08 CULINAKY HERBS 

plantation the rootstocks should be secured when 
the stems have grown 2 or 3 inches tall. 

For forcing, the clumps are lifted in solid masses,, 
with the soil attached, and placed in hotbeds or forc- 
ing house benches. Three or four inches of moist 
soil is worked in among and over them and watered 
freely as soon as growth starts. Cuttings may be 
made in two or three weeks. Often mint is so grown 
in lettuce and violet houses both upon and under 
the benches. During winter and spring there is 
enough of a demand for the young tender stems 
and leaves to make the plants pay. It is said that 
the returns from an ordinary 3 x 6-foot hotbed sash 
should be $10 to $15 for the winter. For drying, the 
stems should be cut on a dry day when the plants 
are approaching full bloom and after the dew .has 
disappeared in the morning. They should be spread 
out very thinly in the shade or in an airy shed. 
(See page 25.) If cut during damp weather, there 
is danger of the leaves turning black. 

Uses. — In both the green and the dried state mint 
is widely used in Europe for flavoring soups, stews 
and sauces for meats of unpronounced character. 
Among the Germans pulverized mint is commonly 
upon the table in cruets for dusting upon gravies 
and soups, especially pea and bean purees 

In England and America the most universal use 
of mint is for making mint sauce, the sauce par ex- 
cellence with roast spring lamb. Nothing can be 
simpler than to mince the tender tops and leaves 
very, very finely, add to vinegar and sweeten to taste. 
Many people fancy they don't like roast lamb. The 



CULINARY HERBS IO9 

chances are that they have never eaten it with well- 
made mint sauce. In recent years mint jelly has 
been taking the place of the sauce, and perhaps 
justly, because it can not only be kept indefinitely 
without deterioration, but because it looks and is 
more tempting. It may be made by steeping mint 
leaves in apple jelly or in one of the various kinds 
of commercial gelatins so popular for making cold 
fruit puddings. The jelly should be a delicate shade 
of green. Of course, before pouring into the jelly 
glasses, the liquid is strained through a jelly bag to 
remove all particles of mint. A handful of leaves 
should color and flavor four to six glasses full. 

Parsley (Cariim Petroselinum, Linn.), a hardy bien- 
nial herb of the natural order Umbelliferse, native 
to Mediterranean shores, and cultivated for at least 
2,000 years. The specific name is derived from the 
habitat of the plant, which naturally grows among 
rocks, the Greek word for which is petros. Many of 
the ancient writings contain references to it, and 
some give directions for its cultivation. The writ- 
ings of the old herbalists of the 15th century show 
that in their times it had already developed several 
well-defined forms and numerous varieties, always 
a sure sign that a plant is popular. Throughout the 
world today it is unquestionably the most widely grown 
of all garden herbs, and has the largest number of varie- 
ties. In moist, moderately cool climates, it may be found 
wild as a weed, but nowhere has it become a pest. 

" Ah ! the green parsley, the thriving tufts of dill ; 
These again shall rise, shall live the coming year." 

— Moschus 



no 



CULINARY HERBS 



Description. — Like mast biennials, parsley develops 
only a rosette of leaves during the first year. These 
leaves are dark green, long stalked and divided two 
or three times into ovate, wedge-shaped segments, 
and each division either entire, as in parsnip, or 









tt 




^ 




r 


J&M7 


W 










'^^^^ 






^J/ ^^P 






f^. 

s 







Curled Parsley 



more or less finely cut or "curled." During the 
second season the erect, branched, channeled flower 
stems rise 2 feet or more high, and at their extremi- 
ties bear umbels of little greenish flowers. The 
fruits or '"seeds" are light brown or gray, convex 
on one side and flat on the other two, the convex 



CULINARY HERBS HI 

side marked with fine ribs. They retain their ger- 
minating power for three years. An interesting fact, 
observed by Palladius in 210 A. D., is that old seed 
germinates more freely than freshly gathered seed. 
Cultivation.— F^LVsley is so easily grown that no gar- 
den, and indeed no household, need be without it. 
After once passing the infant stage no difficulty need 
be experienced. It will thrive in any ordinary soil 
and will do well in a window box with only a mod- 
erate amount of light, and that not even direct sun- 
shine. Gardeners often grow it beneath benches in 
greenhouses, where it gets only small amounts of 
light. No one need hesitate to plant it. 

The seed is very slow in germinating, often requir- 
ing four to six weeks unless soaked before sowing. 
A full day's soaking in tepid water is none too long- 
to wake up the germs. The drills may be made 
in a cold frame during March or in the open ground 
during April. 

It is essential that parsley be sown very early in 
order to germinate at all. If sown late, it may 
possibly not get enough moisture to sprout, and if 
so it will fail completely. When sown in cold 
frames or beds for transplanting, the rows may be 
only 3 or 4 inches apart, though it is perhaps better, 
when such distances are chosen, to sow each alter- 
nate row to forcing radishes, which will have been 
marketed by the time the parsley seedlings appear. 
In the open ground the drills should be 12 to 15 
inches apart, and the seed planted somewhat deeper 
and farther apart than in the presumably better- 



112 CULINARY HERBS 

prepared seedbed or cold frame. One inch between 
seeds is none too little. 

In field culture and at the distances mentioned 
six or seven pounds of seed will be needed for the 
acre. For cultivation on a smaller scale an ounce 
may be found sufficient for 50 to 100 feet of drill. 
.This quantity should be enough for any ordinary- 
sized family. In all open ground culture the radish 
is the parsley's best friend, because it not only marks 
the rows, and thus helps early cultivation, but the 
radishes break, loosen and shade the soil and thus 
aid the parsley plants. 

When the first thinning is done during May, the 
parsley plants may be allowed to stand 2 inches 
asunder. When they begin to crowd at this dis- 
tance each second plant may be removed and sold. 
Four to six little plants make a bunch. The roots 
are left on. This thinning will not only aid the 
remaining plants, but should bring enough revenue 
to pay the cost, perhaps even a little more. The 
first cutting of leaves from plants of field-sown seed 
should be ready by midsummer, but as noted below 
it is usually best to practice the method that will 
hasten maturity and thus catch the best price. A 
*'bunch" is about the amount that can be grasped 
between the thumb and the first finger, 10 to 15 
stalks. 

It is usual to divide the field into three parts so as 
to have a succession of cuttings. About three weeks 
are required for a new crop of leaves to grow and 
mature after the plants have been cut. Larger 
yields can be secured by cutting only the fully ma- 



CULINARY HERBS II3 

tured leaves, allowing the others to remain and 
develop for later cuttings. Three or four times as 
much can be gathered from a given area in this 
way. All plain leaves of such plants injure the ap- 
pearance and reduce the price of the bunches when 
offered for sale. 

If protected from frost, the plants will yield all 
winter. They may be easily transplanted in cold 
frames. These should be placed in some warm, shel- 
tered spot and the plants set in them 4 by 6 inches. 
Mats or shutters will be needed in only the coldest 
weather. Half a dozen to a dozen stalks make the 
usual bunch and retail for 2 or 3 cents. 

In the home garden, parsley may be sown as an 
edging for flower beds and borders. For such pur- 
pose it is best to sow the seed thickly during late 
October or November in double rows close together, 
say 3 or 4 inches. Sown at that time, the plants 
may be expected to appear earlier than if spring 
sown and to form a ribbon of verdure which will 
remain green not only all the growing season, but 
well into winter if desired. It is best, however, 
to dig them up in the fall and resow for the year 
succeeding. 

For window culture, all that is needed is a box 
filled with rich soil. The roots may be dug in the 
fall and planted in the box. A sunny window is 
best, but any window will do. If space is at a pre- 
mium, a nail keg may be made to yield a large 
amount of leaves. Not only may the tops be filled 
with plants, but the sides also. Holes should be 
bored in the staves about 4 inches apart. (See 



114 CULINARY HERBS 

illustration, page 2.) A layer of earth is placed 
in the bottom as deep as the lowest tier of holes. 
Then roots are pushed through these holes and a 
second layer of earth put in. The process is repeated 
till the keg is full. Then plants are set on the top. 
As the keg is being filled the earth should be packed 
very firmly, both around the plants and in the keg. 
When full the soil should be thoroughly soaked and 
allowed to drain before being taken to the window. 
To insure a supply of water for all the plants, a 
short piece of pipe should be placed in the center 
of the keg so as to reach about half way toward the 
bottom. This will enable water to reach the plants 
placed in the lower tiers of holes. If the leaves look 
yellow at any time, they may need water or a little 
manure water. 

As parsley is grown for its leaves, it can scarcely 
be over fertilized. Like cabbage, but, of course, upon 
a smaller scale, it is a gross feeder. It demands that 
plenty of nitrogenous food be in the soil. That is, 
the soil should be well supplied with humus, pref- 
erably derived from decaying leguminous crops or 
from stable manure. A favorite commercial ferti- 
lizer for parsley consists of 3 per cent nitrogen, 8 
per cent potash and 9 per cent phosphoric acid ap- 
plied in the drills at the rate of 600 to 900 pounds 
to the acre in two or three applications — especially 
the nitrogen, to supply which nitrate of soda is the 
most popular material. 

A common practice among market gardeners in 
the neighborhood of New York has been to sow the 
seed in their cold frames between rows of lettuce 



CULINARY HERBS II5 

transplanted during March or early April. The let- 
tuce is cut in May, by which time the parsley is 
getting up. When grown by this plan the crop 
may be secured four or five weeks earlier than if the 
seed is sown in the open ground. The first cutting 
may be made during June. After this first cutting 
has been made the market usually becomes over- 
stocked and the price falls, so many growers do not 
cut again until early September when they cut and 
destroy the leaves preparatory to securing an au- 
tumn and winter supply. 

When the weather becomes cool and when the 
plants have developed a new and sturdy rosette 
of leaves, they are transplanted in shallow trenches 
either in cold frames, in cool greenhouses (lettuce 
and violet houses), under the benches of green- 
houses, or, in fact, any convenient place that is not 
likely to prove satisfactory for growing plants that 
require more heat and light. 

This method, it must be said, is not now as popu- 
lar near the large cities as before the development 
of the great trucking fields in the Atlantic coast 
states; but it is a thoroughly practical plan and 
well worth practicing in the neighborhood of smaller 
cities and towns not adequately supplied with this 
garnishing and flavoring herb. 

A fair return from a cold frame to which the 
plants have been transplanted ranges from $3 to $7 
during the winter months. Since many sashes are 
stored during this season, such a possible return 
deserves to be considered. The total annual yield 
from an acre by this method may vary from $500 to 



Il6 CULINARY HERBS 

$800 or even more — gross. By the ordinary field 
method from $150 to $300 is the usual range. In- 
stead of throwing away the leaves cut in Septem- 
ber, it should be profitable to dry these leaves and 
sell them in tins or jars for flavoring. 

When it is desired to supply the demand for 
American seed, which is preferred to European, the 
plants may be managed in any of the ways already 
mentioned, either allowed to remain in the field or 
transplanted to cold frames, or greenhouses. If left 
in the field, they should be partially buried with 
litter or coarse manure. As the ground will not be 
occupied more than a third of the second season, a 
crop of early beets, forcing carrots, radishes, lettuce 
or some other quick-maturing crop may be sown 
between the rows of parsley plants. Such crops will 
mature by the time the parsley seed is harvested 
in late May or early June, and the ground can then 
be plowed and fitted for some late crop such as early 
maturing but late-sown sweet corn, celery, dwarf 
peas, late beets or string beans. 

When seed is desired, every imperfect or unde- 
sirable plant should be rooted out and destroyed, 
so that none but the best can fertilize each other. 
In early spring the litter must be either removed 
from the plants and the ground between the rows 
given a cultivation to loosen the surface, or it may 
be raked between the rows and allowed to remain 
until after seed harvest. In this latter case, of 
course, no other crop can be grown. 

Like celery seed, parsley seed ripens very irregu- 
larly, some umbels being ready to cut from one to 



CULINARY HERBS 11/ 

three weeks earlier than others. This quality of the 
plant may be bred out by keeping the earliest ma- 
turing seed separate from the later maturing and 
choosing this for producing subsequent seed crops. 
By such selection one to three weeks may be saved 
in later seasons, a saving of time not to be ignored 
in gardening operations. 

In ordinary seed production the heads are cut 
when the bulk of the seed is brown or at least dark 
colored. The stalks are cut carefully, to avoid shat- 
tering the seed off. They are laid upon sheets of 
duck or canvas and threshed very lightly, at once, 
to remove only the ripest seed. Then the stalks are 
spread thinly on shutters or sheets in the sun for 
two days and threshed again. At that time all seed 
ripe enough to germinate will fall off. Both lots of 
seed must be spread thinly on the sheets in an airy 
shed or loft and turned daily for lo days or two 
weeks to make sure they are thoroughly dry before 
being screened in a fanning mill and stored in sacks 
hung in a loft. 

J^aricties. — There are four well-defined groups of 
parsley varieties ; common or plain, curled or moss- 
leaved, fern-leaved, and Hamburg. The last is also 
known as turnip-rooted or large-rooted. The objec- 
tions to plain parsley are that it is not as ornamental 
as moss-leaved or fern-leaved sorts, and because it 
may be mistaken for fool's parsley, a plant reputed 
to be more or less poisonous. 

In the curled varieties the leaves are more or less 
deeply cut and the segments reflexed to a greater or 
less extent, sometimes even to the extent of showing 



Il8 CULINARY HERBS 

the lighter green undersides. In this group are several 
subvarieties, distinguished by minor differences, such 
as extent of reflexing and size of the plants. 

In the fern-leaved group the very dark green 
leaves are not curled but divided into numerous 
threadlike segments which give the plant a very 
delicate and dainty appearance. 

Hamburg, turnip-rooted or large-rooted parsley, is 
little grov^n in America. It is not used as a garnish 
or an herb, but the root is cooked as a vegetable like 
carrots or beets. These roots resemble those of 
parsnips. They are often 6 inches long and 2 inches 
in diameter. Their cultivation is like that of pars- 
nips. They are cooked and served like carrots. In 
flavor, they resemble celeriac or turnip-rooted celery, 
but are not so pleasing. In Germany the plant is 
rather popular, but, except by our German gardeners, 
it has been little cultivated in this country. 

Uses. — The Germans use both roots and tops for 
cooking; the former as a boiled vegetable, the latter 
as a potherb. In English cookery the leaves are 
more extensively used for seasoning fricassees and 
dressings for mild meats, such as chicken and veal, 
than perhaps anything else. In American cookery 
parsley is also popular for this purpose, but is most 
extensively used as a garnish. In many countries 
the green leaves are mixed w^ith salads to add flavor. 
Often, especially among the Germans, the minced 
green leaves are mixed w^ith other vegetables just 
before being served. For instance, if a liberal dust- 
ing of finely minced parsley be added to peeled, 
boiled potatoes, immediately after draining, this 



CULINARY HERBS 119 

vegetable will seem like a new dish of unusual deli- 
cacy. The potatoes may be either served whole or 
mashed with a little butter, milk and pepper. 

Pennyroyal (Mentha Pulegium, Linn. ) , a perennial 
herb of the natural order Labiataa, native of Europe 
and parts of Asia, found wild and naturalized 
throughout the civilized world in strong, moist soil 
on the borders of ponds and streams. Its square, 
prostrate stems, which readily take root at the 
nodes, bear roundish-oval, grayish-green, slightly 
hairy leaves and small lilac-blue flowers in whorled 
clusters of ten or a dozen, rising in tiers, one above 
another, at the nodes. The seed is light brown, oval 
and very small. Like most of its near relatives, penny- 
royal is highly aromatic, perhaps even more so than any 
other mint. The flavor is more pungent and acrid and 
less agreeable than that of spearmint or peppermint. 
Ordinarily the plant is propagated by division like 
mint, or more rarely by cuttings. Cultivation is the 
same as that of mint. Plantations generally last 
for four or five years, and even longer, when well 
managed and on favorable soil. In England it is 
more extensively cultivated than in America for 
drying and for its oil, of which latter a yield of 12 
pounds to the acre is considered good. The leaves, 
green or dried, are used abroad to flavor puddings and 
other culinary preparations, but the taste and odor are 
usually not pleasant to American and English pal- 
ates and noses. 

Peppermint (Mentha piperita, Linn.) is much the 
same in habit of growth as spearmint. It is a native 
of northern Europe, where it may be found in moist 



120 CULINARY HERBS 

situations along stream banks and in waste lands. 
In America it is probably even more common as an 
escape than spearmint. Like its relative, it has 
long been known and grown in gardens and 
fields, especially in Europe, Asia and the United 
States. 

Description. — Like spearmint, the plant has creep- 
ing rootstocks, which rapidly extend it, and often make 
it a troublesome weed in moist ground. The stems 
are smaller than those of spearmint, not so tall, and 
are more purplish. They bear ovate, smooth leaves 
upon longer stalks than those of spearmint. The 
whorled clusters of little, reddish-violet flowers form 
loose, interrupted spikes. No seed is borne. 

Cultivation. — Although peppermint prefers wet, 
even swampy, soil, it will do well on moist loam. It 
is cultivated like spearmint. In Michigan, western 
New York and other parts of the country it is grown 
commercially upon muck lands for the oil distilled 
from its leaves and stems. Among essential oils, 
peppermint ranks first in importance. It is a color- 
less, yellowish or greenish liquid, with a peculiar, 
highly penetrating odor and a burning, camphores- 
cent taste. An interesting use is made of it by san- 
itary engineers, who test the tightness of pipe joints 
by its aid. It has the faculty of making its escape and 
betraying the presence of leaks. It is largely employed 
in the manufacture of soaps and perfumery, but 
probably its best known use is for flavoring con- 
fectionery. 

Rosemary (Roscmarinus officinalis, Linn.) — As its 
generic name implies, rosemary is a native of sea- 



CULINARY HERBS 121 

coasts, "rose" coming from Ros, dew, and ''Mary" from 
marinus, ocean. It is one of the many Labiatse found 
wild in limy situations along the Mediterranean 
coast. In ancient times many and varied virtues 
were ascribed to the plant, hence its "officinalis" or 
medical name, perhaps also the belief that "where 
rosemary flourishes, the lady rules!" Pliny, Dios- 
corides and Galin all write about it. It was culti- 
vated by the Spaniards in the 13th century, and from 
the 15th to the i8th century was popular as a condi- 
ment with salt meats, but has since declined in pop- 
ularity, until now it is used for seasoning almost 
exclusively in Italian, French, Spanish and German 
cookery. 

Description. — The plant is a half-hardy evergreen, 
2 feet or more tall. The erect, branching, woody 
stems bear a profusion of little obtuse, linear leaves, 
green above and hoary white beneath. On their 
upper parts they bear pale blue, axillary flowers in 
leafy clusters. The light-brown seeds, white where 
they were attached to the plant, will germinate even 
when four years old. All parts of the plant are 
fragrant — "the humble rosemary whose sweets so 
thanklessly are shed to scent the desert" (Thomas 
Moore). One of the pleasing superstitions connected 
with this plant is that it strengthens the memory. Thus 
it has become the emblem of remembrance and fidelity. 
Hence the origin of the old custom of wearing it at 
weddings in many parts of Europe. 

"There's rosemary, that's for remembrance; pray, love, re- 
member: And there is pansies, that's for thoughts. " 

— Hamlet, Act iv, Scene 5. 



122 CULINARY HERBS 

Cultivation. — Rosemary is easily propagated by 
means of cuttings, root division and layers in early 
spring, but is most frequently multiplied by seed. 
It does best in rather poor, light soil, especially if 
limy. The seed is either sown in drills i8 to 24 
inches apart or in checks 2 feet asunder each way, 
half a dozen seeds being dropped in each "hill." 
Sometimes the seedbed method is employed, the 
seed being sown either under glass or in the open 
ground and the seedlings transplanted. Cultivation 
consists in keeping the soil loose and open and free 
from weeds. No special directions are necessary 
as to curing. In frostless sections, and even where 
protected by buildings, fences, etc., in moderate 
climates, the plants will continue to thrive for years. 

Uses. — The tender leaves and stems and the flowers 
are used for flavoring stews, fish and meat sauces, 
but are not widely popular in America. Our for- 
eign-born population, however, uses it somewhat. 
In France large quantities, both cultivated and wild, 
are used for distilling the oil of rosemary, a color- 
less or yellowish liquid suggesting camphor, but even 
more pleasant. This oil is extensively used in perfum- 
ing soaps, but more especially in the manufacture of 
eau de cologne, Hungary water and other perfumes. 

Rue (Riita gravcolcns, Linn.), a hardy perennial 
herb of roundish, bushy habit, native of southern 
Europe. It is a member of the same botanical fam- 
ily as the orange, Rutacese. In olden times it was 
highly reputed for seasoning and for medicine among 
the Greeks and the Romans. . In Pliny's time it was 
•considered to be effectual for 84 maladies ! Today 



CULINARY HERBS I23 

it "hangs only by its eyelids" to our pharmacopoeia. 
Apicus notes it among the condiments in the third 
century, and Magnus eleven centuries later praises 
it among the garden esculents. At present it is 
little used for seasoning, even by the Italians and 
the Germans, and almost not at all by English and 
American cooks. Probably because of its acridity 
and its ability to blister the skin when much handled, 
rue has been chosen by poets to express disdain. 
Shakespeare speaks of it as the "sour herb of grace," 
and Theudobach says : 

"When a rose is too haughty for heaven's dew 

She becometh a spider's gray lair ; 
And a bosom, that never devotion knew 
Or affection divine, shall be filled with rue 

And with darkness, and end with despair." 

Description. — The much branched stems, woody be- 
low, rise 18 to 24 inches and bear small oblong or 
obovate, stalked, bluish-green glaucous leaves, two 
or three times divided, the terminal one broader and 
notched at the end. The rather large, greenish- 
yellow flowers, borne in corymbs or short terminal 
clusters, appear all summer. In the round, four or 
five-lobed seed vessels are black kidney-shaped 
seeds, which retain their vitality two years or even 
longer. The whole plant has a very acrid, bitter 
taste and a pungent smell. 

Cultivation. — The plant may be readily propagated 
by means of seed, by cuttings, by layers, and by 
division of the tufts. No special directions are 
needed, except to say that when in the place they 
are to remain the plants should be at least 18 inches 



124 



CULINARY HERBS 



apart — 21 or 24 inches each way would be even 
better. Rue does well on almost any well-drained 
soil, but prefers a rather poor clayey loam. It is 
well, then, to plant it in the most barren part of the 
garden. As the flowers are rather attractive, rue is 
often used among shrubbery for ornamental pur- 



■ 


U^w^ 


!■ 


1 


mm 




1 


li 


i 





Rue, Sour Herb of Grace 



poses. When so grown it is well to cut the stems 
close to the ground every two or three years. 

Uses. — Because of the exceedingly strong smell of 
the leaves, rue is disagreeable to most Americans, 
and could not become popular as a seasoning. Yet 
it is used to a small extent by people who like bitter 
flavors, not only in culinary preparations, but in 



CULINARY HERBS 12^ 

beverages. The whole plant is used in distilling a 
colorless oil which is used in making aromatic vine- 
gars and other toilet preparations. A pound of oil 
may be secured from 150 to 200 pounds of the plant. 

Sage (Salvia ojficinalis, Linn.), a perennial member 
of the Labiatse, found naturally on dry, calcareous 
hills in southern Europe, .and northern Africa. In 
ancient times, it was one of the most highly 
esteemed of all plants because of its reputed health- 
insuring properties. An old adage reads, "How can 
a man die in whose garden sage is growing?" Its 
very names betoken the high regard in which it was 
held; salvia is derived from salviis, to be safe, or 
sah'co, to be in good health or to heal; (hence also 
salvation!) and officinalis stamps its authority or indi- 
cates its recognized official standing. The name sage, 
meaning wisdom, appears to have had a different origin, 
but as the plant was reputed to strengthen the memory, 
there seems to be ground for believing that those who 
ate the plant would be wise. 

Description. — The almost woody stems rise usually 
15 to 18 inches high, though in Holt's Mammoth 
double these sizes is not uncommon. The leaves are 
oblong, pale green, finely toothed, lance-shaped, 
wrinkled and rough. The usually bluish-lilac, some- 
times pink or white flowers, borne in the axils of the 
upper leaves in whorls of three or four, form loose 
terminal spikes or clusters. Over 7,000 of the small 
globular, almost black seeds, which retain their 
vitality about three years, are required to weigh an 
ounce, and nearly 20 ounces to the quart. 

Cultivation. — Sage does best upon mellow well- 



126 CULINARY HERBS 




Sage, the Leading Herb for Duck and Goose Dressing 



CULINARY HERBS I27 

drained soil of moderate fertility. For cultivation 
on a large scale the soil should be plowed deeply and 
allowed to remain in the rough furrows dunng the 
winter, to be broken up as much as possible by the 
frost In the spring it should be fined for the crop 
Sage is easily propagated by division, layers and 
cuttings, but these ways are practiced on an exten- 
sive scale only with the Holt's Mammoth variety, 
which produces no seed. For other varieties seed 
is most popular. This is sown in drills at the rate of 
two .«eds to the inch and covered about K inch 
deep At this rate and in rows 15 inches apart about 
8 pounds of seed will be needed to the acre. 

Usually market gardeners prefer to grow sage as 
a second crop. They therefore raise the plants in 
nursery beds. The seed is sown in very early 
spring, not thicker than already mentioned, but in 
rows closer together, 6 to 9 inches usually. From 
the start the seedlings are kept clean cultivated 
and encouraged to grow stocky. By late May or 
early June the first sowings of summer vegetables 
will have been marketed and the ground ready for 
the sage. The ground is then put in good condi- 
tion and the sage seedlings transplanted 6 or « 
inches apart usually. Clean cultivation is main- 
tained until the sage has possession. 

When the plants meet, usually during late 
August, the alternate ones are cut, bunched and sold. 
At this time one plant should make a good bunch. 
When the rows meet in mid-September, the alter- 
nate rows are marketed, a plant then making about 
two bunches. By the middle of October the final 



128 CULINARY HERBS 

cutting may be started, when the remaining plants 
should be large enough to make about three bunches 
each. This last cutting may continue well into Novem- 
ber without serious loss of lower leaves. If the plants 
are not thinned, but are allowed to crowd, the lower 
leaves will turn yellow and drop off, thus entailing loss. 

For cultivation with hand-wheel hoes the plants 
in the rows should not stand closer than 2 inches at 
first. As soon as they touch, each second one should 
be removed and this process repeated till, when 
growing in a commercial way, each alternate row 
has been removed. Finally, the plants should be 12 
to 15 inches apart. For cultivation by horse the 
rows will need to be farther apart than already 
noted ; 18 to 24 inches is the usual range of distances. 
When grown on a large scale, sage usually follows 
field-grown lettuce, early peas or early cabbage. If 
not cut too closely or too late in the season sage 
plants stand a fair chance to survive moderate win- 
ters. The specimens which succeed in doing so may 
be divided and transplanted to new soil with little 
:trouble. This is the common practice in home gar- 
dens, and is usually more satisfactory than growing 
a new lot of plants from seed each spring. 

For drying or for decocting the leaves are cut 
when the flowers appear. They are dried in the 
shade. If a second cutting is to be made, and if it 
is desired that the plants shall live over winter, this 
second cutting must not be made later than Sep- 
tember in the North, because the new stems will 
not have time to mature before frost, and the plants 
will probably winterkill. 



CULINARY HERBS 



129 



rod will serve to beat 




Sage seed is produced in open cups on slender 
branches, which grow well above the leaves. It 
turns black when ripe. The stems which bear it 
should be cut during a dry afternoon as soon as 
the seeds are ripe and placed on sheets to cure; and 
several cuttings are necessary, because the seed 
ripens unevenly. When any one lot of stems on 
a sheet is dry a light flail or a 
the seed loose. Then small 
sieves and a gentle breeze 
will separate the seed from 
the trash. After screening 
the seed should be spread on 
a sheet in a warm, airy place 
for a week or so to dry still 
more before being stored in 
cloth sacks. A fair yield of 
leaves may be secured after 
seed has been gathered. 

Uses. — Because of their 
highly aromatic odor sage 
leaves have long been used 
for seasoning dressings, 
especially to disguise the too great lusciousness of 
strong meats, such as pork, goose and duck. It is one 
of the most important flavoring ingredients in cer- 
tain kinds of sausage and cheese. In France the 
whole herb is used to distill with water "in order to 
secure essential oil of sage, a greenish-yellow liquid 
employed in perfumery. About 300 pounds of the 
stems and leaves yield one pound of oil. 

Samphire (Crithmum maritimum, Linn.), a Euro- 




Relative Sizes of Holt's Mam- 
moth and Common Sage 
Leaves 



130 



CULINARY HERBS 




Dainty Summer Savory 



pean perennial of 
the Umbellif erse, 
common along rocky 
sea coasts and cliffs 
beyond the reach of 
the tide. From its 
creeping rootstocks 
short, sturdy, more 
or less widely 
branched stems 
arise. These bear 
two or three thick, 
fleshy segmented 
leaves and umbels 
of small whitish 
flowers, followed by 
y e 1 1 o w, elliptical, 
convex, ribbed, very 
light seeds, which 
rarely retain their 
germinating power 
more than a year. 
In gardens the seed 
is therefore gener- 
ally sown in the 
autumn as soon as 
mature in fairly 
rich, light, well- 
drained loam. The 
seedlings should be 
protected with a 
mulch of straw. 



CULINARY II ERRS I3I 

leaves or other material during winter. After the 
removal of the mulch in the spring no special care is 
needed in cultivation. The young, tender, aromatic 
and saline leaves and shoots are pickled in vinegar, 
either alone or with other vegetables. 

Savory, Summer (Satiireia hortcnsis, Linn.), a lit- 
tle annual plant of the natural order Labiatse indig- 
enous to Mediterranean countries and known as an 
escape from gardens in various parts of the world. 
In America, it is occasionally found wild on dry, 
poor soils in Ohio, Illinois, and some of the western 
states. The generic name is derived from an old 
Arabic name, Ssattar, by which the whole mint family 
was known. Among the Romans both summer and 
winter savory were popular 2,000 years ago, not 
only for flavoring, but as potherbs. During the 
middle ages and until the i8th century it still main- 
tained this popularity. Up to about 100 years ago 
it was used in cakes, puddings and confections, but 
these uses have declined. 

Description. — The plant, which rarely exceeds 12 
inches in height, has erect, branching, herbaceous 
stems, with oblong-linear leaves, tapering at their 
bases, and small pink or white flowers clustered in 
the axils of the upper leaves, forming penciled 
spikes. The small, brown, ovoid seeds retain their 
viability about three years. An ounce contains 
about 42,500 of them, and a quart 18 ounces. 

Cultivation. — For earliest use the seed may be sown 
in a spent hotbed or a cold frame in late March, and 
the plants set in the open during May. Usually, 
however, it is sown in the garden or the field where 



132 CULINARY HERBS 

the plants are to remain. In the hotbed the rows 
may be 3 or 4 inches apart; in the field they should 
be not less than 9 inches, and only this distance 
when hand wheel-hoes are to be used, and each alter- 
nate row is to be removed as soon as the plants 
begin to touch across the rows. Half a dozen seeds 
dropped to the inch is fairly thick sowing. As the 
seed is small, it must not be covered deeply; %. inch 
is ample. When the rows are 15 inches apart about 
4 pounds of seed will be needed to the acre. For 
horse cultivation the drills should be 20 inches apart. 
Both summer and winter savory do well on rather 
poor dry soils. If started in hotbeds, the first plants 
may be gathered during May. Garden-sown seed 
will produce plants by June. For drying, the nearly 
mature stems should be cut just as the blossoms 
begin to appear. No special directions are needed 
as to drying. (See page 25.) 

Uses. — Both summer and winter savory are used 
in flavoring salads, dressings, gravies, and sauces 
used with meats such as veal, pork, duck, and goose 
and for increasing the palatability of such prepara- 
tions as croquettes, rissoles and stews. Summer 
savory is the better plant of the two and should be 
in every home garden. 

Savory, Winter (Satureia montana, Linn.), a semi- 
hardy, perennial, very branching herb, native of 
southern Europe and northern Africa. Like sum- 
mer savory, it has been used for flavoring for many 
centuries, but is not now as popular as formerly, 
nor is it as popular as summer savory. 



CULINARY HERBS I33 

Description. — The numerous woody, slender, spread- 
ing stems, often more than 15 inches tall, bear very 
acute, narrow, linear leaves and pale lilac, pink, or 
white flowers in axillary clusters. The brown, 
rather triangular seeds, which retain their vitality 
about three years, are smaller than those of summer 
savory. Over 70,000 are in an ounce, and it takes 
15 ounces to fill a quart. 

Cultivation. — Winter savory is readily propagated 
by means of cuttings, la3^ers and division as well as 
seeds. No directions different from those relating 
to summer savory are necessary, except that seed of 
winter savory should be sown where the plants are 
to remain, because the seedlings do not stand trans- 
planting very well. Seed is often sown in late sum- 
mer where the climate is not severe or where winter 
protection is to be given. The plant is fairly hardy 
on dry soils. When once established it will live for 
several years. 

To increase the yield the stems may be cut to 
within 4 or 5 inches of the ground when about ready 
to flower. New shoots will appear and may be cut 
in turn. For drying, the first cutting may be secured 
during July, the second in late August or September. 
In all respects winter savory is used like summer 
savory, but is considered inferior in flavor. 

Southernwood (Artemisia Abrotanum, Linn.), a 
woody-stemmed perennial belonging to the Compos- 
itse and a native of southern Europe. It grows from 
2 to 4 feet tall, bears hairlike, highly aromatic leaves 
and heads of small yellow flowers. The plant is 
often found in old-fashioned gardens as an orna- 



134 CULINARY HERBS 

mental under the name of Old Man. In some coun- 
tries the young shoots are used for flavoring cakes 
and other culinary preparations. 

Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare, Linn.), a perennial of 
the Compositae, native of Europe, whence it has 
spread with civilization as a weed almost all over 
the world. From the very persistent underground 
parts annual, usually unbranched stems, sometimes 
3 feet tall, are produced in more or less abundance. 
They bear much-divided, oval, oblong leaves and 
numerous small, yellow flower-heads in usually 
crowded corymbs. The small, nearly conical seeds 
have five gray ribs and retain their germinability 
for about two years. 

Tansy is easily propagated by division of the clumps 
or by seed sown in a hotbed for the transplant- 
ing of seedlings. It does well in any moderately 
fertile garden soil, but why anyone should grow 
it except for ornament, either in the garden or as an 
inedible garnish, is more than I can understand. 
While its odor is not exactly repulsive, its acrid, 
bitter taste is such that a nibble, certainly a single 
leaf, would last most people a lifetime. Yet some 
people use it to flavor puddings, omelettes, salads, 
stews and other culinary dishes. Surely a peculiar 
order of gustatory preference ! It is said that don- 
keys will eat thistles, but I have never known them 
to eat tansy, and I am free to confess that I rather 
admire their preference for the thistles. 

Tarragon (Artemisia Dracunciilus, Linn.), a fairly 

V hardy, herbaceous rather shrubby perennial of the 

Compositse, supposed to be a native of southern 



CULINARY HERBS 



135 



Russia, Siberia, and Tartary, cultivated for scarcely 
more than 500 years for its leaves and tender shoots. 
In all civilized countries its popular name, like its 
specific name, means dragon, though why it should 
be so called is not clear. 




Tarragon, the French Chef's Delight 

Description.— The plant has numerous branching 
stems, which bear lance-shaped leaves and nowadays 
white, sterile flowers. Formerly the flowers were 
said to be fertile. No one should buy the seed 
offered as tarragon. It is probably that of a related 
plant which resembles tarragon in everything ex- 
cept flavor— which is absent ! Tagcfcs hicida, which 



136 CULINARY HERBS 

may be used as a substitute for true tarragon, is 
easily propagated by seed and can be procured from 
seedsmen under its own name. As tarragon flowers 
appear to be perfect, it is possible that some plants 
may produce a few seeds, and that plants raised 
from these seeds may repeat the wonder. Indeed, a 
variety which naturally produces seed may thus be 
developed and disseminated. Here is one of the 
possible opportunities for the herb grower to benefit 
his fellow-men. 

Cultivatioji. — At present tarragon is propagated 
only by cuttings, layers and division. There is no 
difficulty in either process. The plant prefers dry, 
rather poor soil, in a warm situation. In cold 
climates it should be partially protected during the 
winter to prevent alternate freezing and thawing of 
both the soil and the plant. In moist and heavy soil 
it will winterkill. Strawy litter or conifer boughs 
will serve the purpose well. Half a dozen to a dozen 
plants will supply the needs of a family. As the plants 
spread a good deal and as they grow 15 to 18 inches 
tall, or even more, they should be set in rows 18 to 
24 inches apart each way. In a short time they will 
take possession of the ground. 

Uses. — The tender shoots and the young leaves are 
often used in salads, and with steaks, chops, etc., 
especially by the French. They are often used as 
an ingredient in pickles. Stews, soups, croquettes, 
and other meat preparations are also flavored with 
tarragon, and for flavoring fish sauces it is especially 
esteemed. 



CULINARY HERBS 



137 



Prol)ably the most popular way it is employed, 
however, is as a decoction in vinegar. For this pur- 
pose, the green parts are gathered preferably in the 
morning and after washing are placed in jars and 
covered with the best 
quality vinegar for a few 
days. The vinegar is then 
drawn off as needed. In 
France, the famous vine- 
gar of Maille is made in 
this way. 

The leaves may be 
dried in the usual way if 
desired. For this purpose 
they are gathered in mid- 
summer. A second cut- 
ting may be made in late 
September or early Octo- 
ber. Tarragon oil, which 
is used for perfuming 
toilet articles, is secured 
by distilling the green 
parts, from 300 to 500 
pounds of which yield 
one pound of oil. 

Thyme (Thymus vul- 
garis, Linn.), a very 

diminutive perennial shrub, of the natural order Labia- 
tae, native of dry, stony places on Mediterranean coasts, 
but found occasionally naturalized as an escape 
from gardens in civilized countries, both warm and 
cold. From early days it has been popularly grown 




Thyme for Sausage 



138 CULINARY HERBS 

for culinary purposes. The name is from the Greek 
word thyo, or sacrifice, because of its use as incense 
to perfume the temples. With the Romans it was 
very popular both in cookery and as a bee forage. 
Like its relatives sage and marjoram, it has practi- 
cally disappeared from medicine, though formerly 
it was very popular because of its reputed properties. 

Description. — The procumbent, branched, slender, 
woody stems, which seldom reach 12 inches, bear 
oblong, triangular, tapering leaves from ^ to ^ 
inch long, green above and gray beneath. In the 
axils of the upper leaves are little pink or lilac flow- 
ers, which form whorls and loose, leafy spikes. The 
seeds, of which there are 170,000 to the ounce, and 
24 ounces to the quart, retain their germinating 
power for three years. 

Cultivation. — Thyme does best in a rather dry, 
moderately fertile, light soil well exposed to the 
sun. Cuttings, layers and divisions may be made, 
but the popular way to propagate is by seed. Be- 
cause the seed is very small, it should be sown very 
shallow or only pressed upon the surface and then 
sprinkled with finely sifted soil. A small seedbed 
should be used in preference to sowing in the open 
ground first, because better attention can be given 
such little beds ; second, because the area where the 
plants are ultimately to be can be used for an early- 
maturing crop. In the seedbed made out of doors 
in early spring, the drills may be made 4 to 6 inches 
apart and the seeds sown at the rate of 5 or 6 to the 
inch. A pound should produce enough plants for 
an acre. In hand sowing direct in the field, a fine 



CULINARY HERBS 



139 



dry .and is often thoroughly mixed with the seed 
Jo'prevent too close planting. The proportion 
chosen is sometimes as great as four times as much 
sand as seed, ^^■hether so^vn direct in the field or 
ransplanted the plants should finally not stand 
SeTthan 8 inches_to is preferred ^Vhen fi-t^et 
they may be half this distance. In a .mall way 
one'planf to the square foot is a good rate to to^ ow^ 
The young plants may be set m the field during 
Tune or eyen as late as July, preferably ,ust V,efore 
irTust after a shower. The alternate plants may 
be emoyed in late August or early September he 
alternate rows about three weeks later and the final 
crop in October. . 

Thyme will winter w.ell. In home garden practice 
it Jy be treated like sage. In the coldest chmates 
it may be mulched with leayes or litter to preyent 
undue thawing and freezing and consequent heay- 
"ng of the soil. In the spring the plants should be 
dug, divided and reset in a new situation. 

When seed is desired, the ripening tops must be 
cut frequently, because the plants mature very tm- 
evenly But this method is often more wasteful 
than spreading cloths or sheets of paper beneath 
tS plants and allowing the seed to drop in them 
as it ripens. Twice a day, preferably about noon, 
and in the late afternoon the plants should be gently 
• rr d to make the ripe seeds fall into the sheets. 
What falls should then be collected and spread m 
a warm, airy room to dry thoroughly, ^^hen this 
Lthod is practiced the stems are cut finally; that 
r when the bulk of the seed has been gathered. 



140 CULINARY HERBS 

They are dried, threshed or rubbed and the trash 
removed, by sifting. During damp weather the 
seed will not separate readily from the plants. 

Of the common thyme there are two varieties : 
narrow-leaved and broad-leaved. The former, which 
has small grayish-green leaves, is more aromatic 
and pleasing than the latter, which, however, is 
much more popular, mainly because of its size, and 
not because of its superiority to the narrow-leaved kind. 
It is also known as winter or German thyme. The 
plant is taller and larger and has bigger leaves, 
flowers and seeds than the narrow-leaved variety 
and is decidedly more bitter. 

Uses. — The green parts, either fresh, dried or in 
decoction, are used very extensively for flavoring 
soups, gravies, stews, sauces, forcemeats, sausages, 
dressings, etc. For drying, the tender stems are 
^gathered after the dew is off and exposed to warm 
air in the shade. When crisp they are rubbed, the 
trash removed and the powder placed in stoppered 
bottles or tins. All parts of the plant are fragrant 
because of the volatile oil, which is commercially 
distilled mainly in France. • About one per cent of 
the green parts is oil, which after distillation is at 
first a reddish-brown fluid. It loses its color on 
redistillation and becomes slightly less fragrant. 
Both grades of oil are used commercially in per- 
fumery. In the oil are also crystals (thymol), which 
resemble camphor and because of their pleasant 
odor are used as a disinfectant where the strong- 
smelling carbolic acid would be objectionable. 



CULINARY HERBS 141 

Besides common thyme two other related species 
are cultivated to some extent for culinary purposes. 
Lemon thyme (T. citriodorus, Pers.), like its com- 
mon relative, is a little undcrshrub, with procum- 
bent stems and with a particularly pleasing fragrance. 
Wild thyme, or mother-of-thyme {T. scrpyllum, 
Linn.), is a less grown perennial, with violet 
or pink flowers. It is occasionally seen in country 
home gardens, and is also used somewhat for sea- 
soning. 



INDEX 



Page 

Angelica 56 

candied 59 

Anise 59 

in Bible 13 

Bags of herbs 6 

Balm 63 

demand for 20 

Barrel of herbs , 8 

Basil 65 

demand for 20 

tree 68 

Bible, herbs mentioned in 12 

Borage 71 

Bouquet of herbs 6 

Bride's trousseau 7 

Caraway 73 

Catnip 77 

Chervil 79 

Chives 80 

Clary 81 

Cleveland, John, quoted 101 

Coriander 82 

Cultivation 47 

Cumin 84 

in Bible 13 

Curing 22 

Cuttings, propagation by 34 

Dibbles tabooed 42 

Dill 87 

demand for 21 

for pickles 21 

Dinner of herbs 7 

Division, propagation by 37 

Double cropping 48 

Drying 25 

Drying seeds 28 

Eggs, stuffed 9 

Evaporator 26 

Fennel 89 

demand for 20 

Florence 93 

Fennel Flower 94 

Finocchio 93 

Garnishes 19, 30 

Herb history 12 

History of herbs 12 

Hoarhound 95 

Hyssop 96 

Ingelow, Jean quoted 101 

Lavender 97 

and linen 7 

Layers, propagation by 36 

Lovage 99 



Lunch, herb 3 

MacDonald, George, quoted 72 

Marigold 100 

Marjoram ''01 

demand for 20 

Market gardening, herb 14 

Medicine, herbs in 53 

Mint 105 

demand for 21 

in Bible 13 

Moschus quoted 109 

Moving pictures 4 

Omelette, herb 9 

Packages for selling 14 

Parsley 109 

in most demand 19 

Peppermint 119 

Pictures, moving 4 

Pillows full of herbs 6 

Propagation 32 

Rosemary 120 

Rue 122 

in Bible 13 

Sage 125 

in demand 20 

Salad, herb 9 

Samphire 129 

Sandwiches, herb and cheese . . 5 

lettuce and nasturtium 10 

Savory, demand for 20 

summer 131 

winter 132 

Seeds, propagation by 32 

Selection for variety 15 

Shakespeare quoted 6,63,121 

Sieves, sizes to use 29 

Soda water 4 

Soil preparation 45 

Solomon's herb dinner 3 

Soup, parsley . ; 8 

Southernwood 133 

Storing • 25 

Superstitions about herbs 34 

Tagetes lucida 135 

Tansy j34 

Tarragon • |^^ 

Theudobach quoted J^^ 

Thyme 1|7 

demand for 20 

lemon 141 

Transplanting 39 

Varieties, production of '5 

Water, importance of 41 



143 



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